The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to EdinburghHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to Edinburgh
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
A1 Road (England and Scotland); England -- Social life and customs; Great Britain -- Description and travel
Their farms and granges yielded them all that the appreciative stomachs
of these religious recluses could desire, save indeed when the Scots
swooped over the Tweed and took their produce away. It is a rhyme of
good living:—
From Goswick we’ve geese, from Cheswick we’ve cheese;
From Buckton we’ve venison in store;
From Swinhoe we’ve bacon, but the Scots it have taken,
And the Prior is longing for more.
The yellow sands that occupy the levels and reach out at low tide to Holy
Island are treacherous. With the exquisite colouring of sea and sky on a
summer day blending with them, they look at this distance like the shores
of fairyland; but the grim little churchyard of Holy Island has many
memorials presenting another picture—a picture of winter storm and
shipwreck, for which this wild coast has ever been memorable. Off
Bambrough, where the Farne Islands are scattered in the sea, the scene is
still recalled of the wreck of the _Forfarshire_ and Grace Darling’s
heroism; and the monument of that famous girl stands in Bambrough
churchyard to render the summer pilgrim mindful of the danger of this
coast. Dangerous not only to those on the waters, but also to travellers
who formerly took the short cut from Berwick across the sands, instead of
going by the hilly road. The way, clearly marked in daylight by a line
of poles, has often been mistaken at night; sudden storms, arising when
travellers have reached midway, have swept them out to sea; or fogs have
entangled the footsteps even of those who knew the uncharted flats best.
Whatever the cause, to be lost here was death. The classic instance,
still narrated, is that of the postboy carrying the mails from Edinburgh
on the 20th of November, 1725. Neither he nor the mail-bags was ever
heard of again after leaving Berwick, and it was naturally concluded that
he was lost on the quicksands in a sea-fog.
Away on the west of the road rise the Kyloe hills, like ramparts, and on
their tallest ridge the church tower of Kyloe, conspicuous for long
distances, and greatly appreciated by sailors as a landmark. The village
is not perhaps famous, but certainly notable for a former vicar, who
apparently aspired to writing a personal history of his parish as well as
keeping a merely formal set of registers. Scattered through his official
records are some very curious notes, among them: “1696. Buried, Dec. 7,
Henry, the son of Henry Watson of Fenwick, who lived to the age of 36
years, and was so great a fool that he could never put on his own close,
nor never went a ¼ mile off ye house in all this space.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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