The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to EdinburghHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to Edinburgh
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
A1 Road (England and Scotland); England -- Social life and customs; Great Britain -- Description and travel
It is a valley of whose delights one must needs chatter, although with
but dim hopes of communicating much of its charm. Through it that little
stream called by the medicinally sounding name, the Eye Water, wanders
with a feminine hesitancy and inconstancy of purpose. It flows all ways
by turns and never long in any direction, and with so many amazing loops
and doublings, that it might well defy the precision of the Ordnance
chartographers themselves. We bid farewell to this fickle stream at
Grant’s House, and scrape acquaintance with another, the Pease Burn,
flowing in another direction. For Grant’s House stands on the watershed
which orders the going of several watercourses. It is also the summit
level of this railway route to the North. Here, quite close to the road,
is Grant’s House station, and here, bordering the road itself, are the
houses that form Grant’s House itself. This sounds like speaking in
paradox, but the place is a village, or rather a scattered collection of
pretty cottages that have gathered around the one inn which was the home
of the original Grant. The place-name seems to hint of other and
less-travelled times, when these Borders were sparsely settled and
wayfarers few; when but one house served to take the edge off the
solitude, and that an inn kept by one Grant. The imagination, thus
uninstructed, weaves cocoons of speculation around these premises and
conceives him to have been a host of abounding personality, thus to hand
his name down to posterity, preserved in a place-name, like a fly in
amber. But all speculations that start upon this innkeeping basis would
be incorrect, for this sponsorial Grant was the contractor who made the
road from Berwick to Edinburgh, building a cottage for himself in this
then lonely spot, which only in later years became the Grant’s House inn.
More streams and woods beyond this point, and then comes the long and
toilsome rise up to Cockburnspath, past Pease Burn, where the road takes
a double S curve on the hillside, and other tall hills, to right and left
and ahead, largely covered with firs and larches, seem to look on with a
gloomy anticipation of some one, less cautious than his fellows, breaking
his neck. Where there are no hillside woods there are grass meadows in
which, if it be June or July, the haymakers can be seen from the road,
haymaking, with attendant horses and carts, at a perilous angle. The
Pease Burn, flowing deep down in its Dene, is spanned at a height of 127
feet, half a mile down stream, by a four-arched bridge, built in 1786.
XXXI
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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