The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to Edinburgh — John Shaqi
The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to EdinburghHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to Edinburgh
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
A1 Road (England and Scotland); England -- Social life and customs; Great Britain -- Description and travel
And for long after those lines were written they held good. Not many
other cities had York’s advantages as a great military headquarters, as
well as the head of an ecclesiastical Province, and its position as a
great coaching centre to and from which came and went away many other
coaches besides those which fared the Great North Road was commanding.
Cross-country coach-routes radiated from the old cathedral city in every
direction; just as, in fact, the railways do nowadays. It is no part of
our business to particularise them, but the inns they frequented demand a
notice. Some of these inns were solely devoted to posting, which in this
broad-acred county of wealthy squires was not considered the extravagance
that less fortunate folks thought it. Chief among these was—alas! that
we must say _was_—the “George,” which stood almost exactly opposite the
still extant “Black Swan” in Coney Street. A flaunting pile of business
premises occupied by a firm of drapers now usurps the site of that
extremely picturesque old house which rejoiced in a sixteenth-century
frontage, heavily gabled and enriched with quaint designs in plaster, and
a yawning archway, supported on either side by curious figures whose
lower anatomy ended in scrolls, after the manner of the Renaissance. The
“George” for many years enjoyed an unexampled prosperity, and the
adjoining houses, of early Georgian date, with projecting colonnade, were
annexed to it. When it went, to make way for new buildings, York lost
its most picturesque inn, for the York Tavern, now Harker’s Hotel, though
solid, comfortable, and prosperous-looking, with its cleanly stucco
front, is not interesting, and the “Black Swan” is a typical redbrick
building of two hundred years ago, square as a box, and as little
decorative as it could possibly be. As for the aristocratic Etteridge’s,
which stood in Lendal, it may be sought in vain in that largely rebuilt
quarter. Etteridge’s not only disdained the ordinary coaching business,
but also jibbed at the average posting people—or, perhaps, to put it more
correctly, even the wealthy squires who flung away their money on posting
stood aghast at Etteridge’s prices. Therefore, in those days, when
riches and gentility went together—before the self-made millionaires had
risen, like scum, to the top—Etteridge’s entertained the most select, who
travelled in their own “chariots,” and were horsed on their almost royal
progresses by Etteridge and his like.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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