The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to EdinburghHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to Edinburgh
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
A1 Road (England and Scotland); England -- Social life and customs; Great Britain -- Description and travel
YORK MINSTER, although so huge and imposing a pile when reached, is not
glimpsed by the traveller approaching the city from the Selby route until
well within the streets, and only when Knavesmire is passed on the
Tadcaster route are its three towers seen rising far behind the time-worn
turrets of Micklegate Bar. In bulk, it is in the very front rank among
English cathedrals, but the flatness of its site and the narrow streets
that lead to the Minster Yard render it quite inconspicuous from any
distance, except from a few selected points and from the commanding eyrie
of the City Walls, whence, indeed, it is seen at its grandest. “Minster”
it has been named from time immemorial, but for no apparent reason, for
York’s Chapter was one of secular priests, and as the term “minster”
derives from “monasterium,” this is clearly a misnomer. But as the
larger churches were those in connection with monastic rule, it must have
seemed in the popular view that this gigantic church was rightly a
Minster, no matter what its government.
[Picture: York Minster, from the Foss]
It lies quite away from the tortuous streets by which the traveller
proceeds through York for the road to the North, and it is only when
nearly leaving the city by Bootham Bar that glimpses of its grey bulk are
seen, at the end of some narrow lane like Stonegate or Petergate, framed
in by old gabled houses that lean upon each other in every attitude
suggesting age and decay, or seem to nod owlishly to neighbours just as
decrepit across the cobble-stoned path. These be ideal surroundings. In
the ancient shops, too, are things of rarity and price, artfully
displayed to the gaze of unwary purchasers who do not know the secrets of
the trade in antiques and curiosities, and are quite ignorant of the fact
that they pay twice or thrice the value at such places as these for the
old china, the silver, the chairs, and bookcases of quaint design that
take their fancy. Only a narrow space prevents the stranger from butting
up against the Minster, at the end of these lanes, for here at York we
find no such wide and grassy Cathedral close as that of Winchester, or
those of Canterbury, Wells, or Peterborough. Just a paved yard,
extremely narrow along the whole south side and to the east, with a
broader paved space at the west front, and some mingled lawns and
pavements to the north, where dwell the Dean, the prebendaries, and
suchlike: these are the surroundings of the Minster, which render it
almost impossible to gain a comprehensive view of any part save the west
front.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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