The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to EdinburghHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to Edinburgh
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
A1 Road (England and Scotland); England -- Social life and customs; Great Britain -- Description and travel
An odd and entirely inexplicable device is found outside the four eastern
windows of the choir clerestory, north and south, in the placing of the
triforium passage outside the building, and the screening of it and the
windows with a great skeleton framework of stone. The reason of
this—whether it was a mistaken idea of decoration, or for some structural
strengthening purpose—is still to be sought. But the east end is an
equally crude and artless piece of work, almost wholly given up to the
east window; the small flanking windows looking mean and pinched by
comparison, and the abundant decoration characterised by stupid
repetition and want of invention. Here we see the Perpendicular style at
a very low ebb, and thus it is not altogether a disadvantage that the
road is so narrow at this point that a full view of the east end is
difficult to obtain.
Criticism is at once disarmed on entering. One enters, not by the great
portals in the west front, but by the south porch, the most impressive
entrance, as it happens. For this is at once the noblest and the
earliest portion of the great church, and here, in one magnificent view
from south to north we obtain one of the finest architectural vistas in
England. Majesty personified, these Early English transepts are in
themselves broad and long and lofty enough to furnish a nave for many
another cathedral. Spaciousness and nobility of proportion are the notes
of them, and even the beautiful nave, with its aisles, light and
graceful, loftier and broader than almost any other in the land, dwindles
by comparison. They produce in the surprised traveller who first beholds
them the rare sensation of satisfaction, of expectations more than
realised, and give an uplifting of spirit as thrilling as that caused by
some inspiring passage of minstrelsy. To stand at the crossing and gaze
upwards into that vast tower which looks so clumsy to the outward view,
is to receive an impression of beauty, of combined strength and
lightness, which is not to be acquired elsewhere, for it is the finest of
lantern towers, and, open to the vaulting of its roof, a hundred and
eighty feet above the pavement, its great windows on all sides entrap the
sunbeams and shed a diffused glory on arcade and pier. Perhaps one of
the most daring attempts at effect is that which confronts the visitor as
he enters by the south porch. Daring, not from the constructional, but
from the decorative point of view, the five equal-sized lancet windows,
the “Five Sisters” that occupy three parts of the space in the wall of
the north transept, might so easily have been as glaring a failure as
they are a conspicuous success. Their very prominence has doubtless
given them their name, and caused the legend to be invented of their
having been the gift of five maiden sisters. The beauty of the original
Early English glass which still remains in these lancets has a
considerable share in producing this successful effect. That the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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