The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to EdinburghHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Great North Road, the Old Mail Road to Scotland: York to Edinburgh
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
A1 Road (England and Scotland); England -- Social life and customs; Great Britain -- Description and travel
If its surroundings may be said to fit in with a crime, then this seems
an ideal spot for the commission of dark deeds, this eerie place where an
oozy plantation, or little wood, is placed beside the road, its trees
standing in pools or on moss-grown tussocks; the road in either direction
a solitude.
Raskelfe, or “Rascall,” as it is generally called, lies away from the
road. It has a church which still possesses a wooden tower, and the
local rhyme,
Wooden church, wooden steeple,
Rascally church, and rascally people.
is yet heard in the mouths of depreciatory neighbours.
XI
THE Hambleton Hills now come in sight, and close in the view on the right
hand, at a distance of five miles; running parallel with the road as far
as Northallerton; sullen hills, with the outlines of mountains, and
wanting only altitude to earn the appellation. The road, in sympathy
with its nearness to them, goes up and down in jerky rises and falls,
passing the outlying houses of Thormanby and the farmsteads of Birdforth,
which pretends, with its mean little church, like a sanctified cow-shed,
to be a village—and signally fails.
The gates of Thirkleby Park and the “Griffin” inn, standing where a
toll-gate formerly stood on what was once Bagby Common, bring one past a
bye-road which leads to Coxwold, five miles away, and to the Hambleton
White Horse, a quite unhistorical imitation, cut in the hillside in 1857,
of its prehistoric forerunners in Berkshire and Wilts. Coxwold is a
rarely pretty village, famous as having been the living of the Reverend
Laurence Sterne from 1760 to 1768. The house he lived in, now divided
into three cottages, is the place where _Tristram Shandy_ was finished
and the _Sentimental Journey_ written. “Shandy Hall” it is called,
“shandy” being the local dialect-word for “crazy.”
Thirsk lies less than three miles ahead. There have been those who have
called it “picturesque.” Let us pity them, for those to whom Thirsk
shows a picturesque side must needs have acquaintance with only the
sorriest and most commonplace of towns. The place is, in fact, a larger
Easingwold, with the addition of a market-place like that of Selby—after
the abbey has been subtracted from it! There are Old Thirsk and New
Thirsk, the new town called into existence by the railway, a mile to the
west. The “Three Tuns,” “Crown,” and “Fleece” were the three coaching
inns of Thirsk, and still show their hard-featured faces to the grey,
gaunt streets. The one pretty “bit” is encountered after having left the
town behind. Passing the church, the road is bordered by the beautiful
broad sheet of water formed by damming the Caldbeck. Looking backwards,
the view is charming, with the church-tower coming into the composition,
a glance to the left including the Hambleton Hills.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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