Place: The Rambla, which for those who speak alien tongues has an
Arabic sound, and tells us that this, the finest promenade in the
world, was once a sandy river-bed. Here now the grave caballero
promenades himself from early morning to an eve that knows no dew.
Priest and peasant, the great lady and the gentleman who sells one a
glass of water for a centimo, brush past each other. The great lady is
dressed in black, as all Spanish ladies are, and on her head she wears
the long-lived mantilla, which will last our time and the time of our
grandsons. The humbler women-folk wear bright handkerchiefs in place
of the mantilla; in dress they affect bright colours.
With the sterner sex, the line of demarcation is equally distinct.
There is the man who wears the peasant's blouse, and the man who wears
the cloak.
It is with one of the latter that we have to deal--a tall, grave man,
with quiet eyes and a long, pointed chin. The air is chilly, and this
promenader's black cloak is thrown well over the shoulder, displaying
the bright-coloured lining of velvet, which is all the relief the
Spaniard allows his sombre self.
The caballero's face is brown, as of one whose walk is not always
beneath the shady trees. The expression of it is chastened. One sees
the history of a country in the faces of its men. In this there is the
history of a past, it is the face of a man living in a bygone day. He
notes the interest of the moment with grave surprise, but his life is
behind him.
This man has the Spaniard's thoughtful interest in a trifle. He pauses
to note the number of the sparrows, as thick as leaves upon the trees.
He carefully unfolds his cloak, gives the loose end a little shake, and
casts it skilfully over his shoulder, so that it falls across his back,
and, hanging there, displays the bright lining. He pauses to watch the
result of an infantile accident. The baby picks itself up and brushes
the dust from its diminutive frock with all the earnestness of early
youth. And the cavalier walks on.
All this with a contemplative grandeur of demeanour worthy of larger if
not better things.
In the roadway at the side of the broad promenade a carriage and pair
followed this gentleman--carriage and horses which were beautiful even
in this land of horses. For this was Cipriani de Lloseta de Mallorca,
a great man in Barcelona, if he wished it, a greater in his own little
island of Majorca, whether he wished it or not.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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