The Guardians of the Columbia: Mount Hood, Mount Adams and Mount St. HelensWilliams, John H. (John Harvey)
History
The Guardians of the Columbia: Mount Hood, Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens
Williams, John H. (John Harvey)
Adams, Mount (Wash.); Cascade Range; Columbia River; Hood, Mount (Or.); Saint Helens, Mount (Wash.)
[Illustration: South side of Mount Hood, seen from crag on
Tom-Dick-and-Harry Ridge, five miles from the snow-line. A thousand feet
below is the hotel called "Government Camp," with the Barlow road, the
first across the Cascades. On left are Zigzag and Sand canyons, cut by
streams from Zigzag glacier above.]
[Illustration: Crag on which above view was taken.]
The visitor who begins his acquaintance with Mount Hood on the north
side has, from Cloud Cap Inn, four interesting glaciers within a radius
of a few miles. Immediately before the Inn, Eliot glacier displays its
entire length of two miles, its snout being only a few rods away. West
of this, Coe and Ladd glaciers divide the north face with the Eliot. All
three have their source in neighboring reservoirs near the summit, which
have been greatly reduced in area. This, with the resulting shrinkage
in the glaciers, is shown by the high lateral moraines left as the width
of the ice streams has lessened. On the east slope is a fine cliff
glacier, the Newton Clark, separated from the Eliot by Cooper Spur, a
long ridge that furnishes the only feasible north-side route for
climbers to the summit.
[Illustration: Part of the "bergschrund" above Crater Rock. A
bergschrund is a crevasse of which the lower side lies much below its
upper side. It is caused by a sharp fall in the slope, or by the ice at
the head of a glacier pulling away from the packed snow above.]
Climbing Cooper Spur is a tedious struggle up a long cinder slope, but
it has its reward in fine views of the near-by glaciers and a wide
outlook over the surrounding country. A tramp of three miles from the
Inn covers the easier grade, and brings the climber to a height of eight
thousand feet. A narrow, snow-covered chine now offers a windy path to
the foot of the steeper slope (See p. 60). The climb ends with the
conquest of a half-mile of vertical elevation over a grade that tests
muscle, wind and nerve. This is real mountaineering, and as the novice
clutches the rocks, or carefully follows in the steps cut by the guide,
he recalls a command well adapted to such trying situations: "Prove all
things; hold fast that which is good." But the danger is more apparent
than real, and the goal is soon reached.
[Illustration: Prof. Harry Fielding Reid and party exploring Zigzag
glacier, south side of Mount Hood. Illumination Rock is seen beyond.]
The south-side route, followed by the Barlow party of 1854, was long
deemed the only practicable trail to the summit. Many years later,
William A. Langille discovered the route up from Cooper Spur. The only
accident charged against this path befell a stranger who was killed in
trying to climb it without a guide. Its steepness is, indeed, an
advantage, as it requires less time than the other route. Climbers
frequently ascend by one trail and descend by the other, thus making the
trip between Cloud Cap Inn and Government Camp in a day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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