The gunsmith's manual : $b A complete handbook for the American gunsmith, being a practical guide to all branches of the tradeStelle, J. Parish (James Parish)
History
The gunsmith's manual : $b A complete handbook for the American gunsmith, being a practical guide to all branches of the trade
Stelle, J. Parish (James Parish)
Gunsmithing
_Nomenclature of Screws._—In all the screws, the parts are the stem, the
head, the slot and the thread.
CHAPTER XXX.
ON BROWNING.
_Object of Browning._—Browning is done for the purpose of subduing the
bright color of the barrel from the sight of game; to bring out the
fibres of the metal to show their form and beauty, and also to show
whether the metal be free from flaws. It does not prevent barrels from
rusting, but rust will not attack so readily as if left in a bright
condition. The browning is very certain to make all defects appear,
except those designedly hidden, and not only defects of materials but
the filing and finishing of the barrel, if not well done, will appear in
marks in certain lights. A thoroughly well-filed barrel presents, what
may be called, a deep liquid appearance.
_Preparatory Process._—The process of browning is simple and cheap, and
at the same time serves to protect a gun, in some measure, from rust, and
also adds to its appearance. The operation consists in producing a very
thin uniform film of rust, or oxide, upon the iron and giving a gloss to
its surface by rubbing wax over it, or by coating it with some kind of
varnish, as shellac varnish.
Preparatory to browning, the barrel having been filed and polished
bright, is rubbed with lime to remove all grease. Some gun makers use wet
lime or lime water and then rub in dry powdered lime. The vent holes are
to be stopped with wax or wooden plugs, and both breech and muzzle are
to be plugged with wooden rods which serve as handles to hold the barrel
during the operation. The object of plugging is to prevent the mixture
from finding its way into the interior of the barrel and the breech and
muzzle plugs also serving as handles, prevent the hands from coming in
contact with the barrel, which would prevent the stain from “taking,”
and consequently cause a spot of different color from that on other
portions of the work. The solution is generally applied with a sponge or
cloth, sponge being preferable, until the surface is equally moistened,
and after standing in a warm place, generally about twenty-four hours,
it is rubbed off with a stiff brush or a wire card. The state of the
atmosphere will have much to do with the action of the browning mixture.
It can be easily ascertained when the barrels are dry enough to work,
as by applying the card, if dry, the rust will fly off quickly, but if
not dry, the rust will adhere firmly and the surface of the barrel will
look streaky. Some mixtures will dry in twelve hours or even less, but
twenty-four hours will insure their being perfectly dry. The process of
wetting and brushing, or “carding,” is repeated until the barrel has
acquired the desired color. When this stage is reached the barrel is
freely washed with hot water, in which a little potash may be mixed. Then
wash with clean water and dry thoroughly. A little lime water may be
used as a wash to destroy any free acid that may remain in the pores of
the metal.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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