The gunsmith's manual : $b A complete handbook for the American gunsmith, being a practical guide to all branches of the trade — John Shaqi
The gunsmith's manual : $b A complete handbook for the American gunsmith, being a practical guide to all branches of the tradeStelle, J. Parish (James Parish)
History
The gunsmith's manual : $b A complete handbook for the American gunsmith, being a practical guide to all branches of the trade
Stelle, J. Parish (James Parish)
Gunsmithing
The size of the cup may be from three inches to three and a half in
diameter, and about five inches high. The opening at the bottom may
extend about half of the height. The lamp is made of less diameter than
the interior of the cup to admit of moving to get a good flame from
the blow-pipe. The lamp may be 1¾ inches in diameter and an inch high.
The boiler is about two inches high and has the bottom made a little
convex, as shown by dotted lines, and is some smaller than at the top
where a flange is formed to admit of its resting on the top of the cup.
The top of the boiler is also convex, and has a short tube in which a
cork is fitted, for the purpose of filling it. The blowing tube is about
three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter. There is a long slot in the cup
near its handle which readily admits of its being put in position for
blowing. There are several small holes near the top of the cup to insure
draft to the lamp, and there is a large hole about an inch in diameter
opposite the end of the blow-pipe through which the flame issues where
the work is held.
For silver soldering, small brazing, tempering, or any similar small
work, this lamp is most excellent. To make the small blowing-pipe, drill
a smooth hole through a piece of iron or steel and ream out one side of
it. Cut a strip of thin copper or soft brass of a width just enough to
fill the hole if it were made into a tube. Point one end of the strip and
roughly form it into a tube, insert in the hole and pull it through. Or
the strip can be rolled around a piece of iron wire forming it to a tube
by hammering. Soft solder it after being formed to shape.
_Breech Wrenches._—In many shops the monkey wrench is made to do duty in
removing breech-pins, but at the expense of marring the pin where the
wrench engages it. If many guns with breech-pins like those used in army
guns are handled, it is worth while to have solid wrenches forged of iron
like Fig. 12. The length may be about fifteen inches, with an opening to
fit the shoulder of the breech-pin. The width at this place may be about
one and a half inches; thickness, about half an inch; diameter at end of
handle, about three-quarters of an inch, and at the small portions near
the centre, about half an inch.
[Illustration: FIGURE 12.]
A wrench for removing patent breeches or nuts from double guns is made
like Fig. 13. It consists of a steel bar about fifteen or sixteen inches
long and about three-quarters of an inch diameter. At a little to one
side of the center is fastened a steel collar that has four projections
made at one end. A similar piece is fitted opposite to it, but is made
to move back and forth to fit the work by means of a screw that is formed
behind where it is fitted. A slot is made in the extension of the piece
and a key fitted to prevent its turning around as the nut is turned to
advance it toward its fellow piece.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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