The Harvest of the Sea: A contribution to the natural and economic history of the British food fishesBertram, James Glass
Science
The Harvest of the Sea: A contribution to the natural and economic history of the British food fishes
Bertram, James Glass
Fish culture; Fisheries -- Great Britain; Fishes
This unhealthy competition will always continue till some new system
be adopted, such as converting each river into a joint-stock property,
when the united interests of the proprietors, both upper and lower,
would be considered. The trade in fresh salmon, which has culminated
in some rivers by the total extermination of the fish, dates from the
time of Mr. Dempster’s discovery of packing in ice. Half-a-century ago,
when we had no railways, and when even _fast_ coaches were too slow for
the transmission of sea-produce, the markets were exceedingly local.
Then salmon was so very cheap as to be thought of no value as food, and
was only looked upon by the population with an eye of good-humoured
toleration—nobody ever expected to hear of it as a luxury at five
shillings a pound weight. No Parisian market existed then for foul
fish, and fifty years ago people only poached for amusement. But in
the excessive poaching which now goes on during close-time we have a
minor cause nearly as productive of evil as the primary and legal one;
for of course it is _legal_ for the tacksman of the station to kill
all the fish he can. Add to these causes the extraordinary quantities
of infant fish which are annually killed, coupled with that phase of
insanity which leads to the capture of grilse (salmon that have never
spawned), and we obtain a rough idea of the progress of destruction as
it goes on in our salmon rivers. Fifty or sixty years ago men caught
a salmon or shot a pheasant for mere sport, or at most for the supply
of an individual want. Now poaching is a trade or business entered
into as a means of securing a weekly or annual income; it has its
complex machinery—its nets, guns, and other implements. There are men
who earn large wages at this illicit work, who take to “the birds” in
autumn and the fish in winter with the utmost regularity; and there are
middlemen and others who encourage them and aid them in disposing of
the stolen goods. A few men will band themselves together, and in the
course of a night or two sweep fish from off the spawning-beds which
are totally unfit for human food. There is a ready market always to be
found even for spawning fish. Few of my readers can have any idea of
the immense number of salmon which are destroyed by this cause, and
at the very time when they are at their greatest value, intent on the
propagation of their kind. Indeed, on the very spawning-bed itself,
the “deadly leister” is hurled with unerring aim and mighty force; and
the slain fish, safely hidden in the poacher’s bag, is carried off to
be kippered and sold for the English market. A party will start at
nightfall, and, dividing into two companies, sweep the Tweed with a net
from shore to shore, and capture everything of the salmon kind that
comes within reach. The takes upon such occasions average from ten to
forty fish. The first night upon which my informant—a weaver—went out,
the result was seventeen large fish, three of which weighed ninety
pounds.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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