The Harvest of the Sea: A contribution to the natural and economic history of the British food fishesBertram, James Glass
Science
The Harvest of the Sea: A contribution to the natural and economic history of the British food fishes
Bertram, James Glass
Fish culture; Fisheries -- Great Britain; Fishes
As another example of our ignorance of fish life, I may instance that
diminutive member of the Clupea family—the whitebait. This fish, which
is so much better known gastronomically than it is scientifically, was
thought at one time to be found only in the Thames, but it is much
more generally diffused than is supposed. It is found for certain,
and in great plenty, in three rivers—viz., the Thames, the Forth, and
the Hamble. I have also seen it taken out of the Humber, not far from
Hull, and have heard of its being caught near the mouth of the Deveron,
on the Moray Firth; and likewise of its being found in plentiful
quantities off the Isle of Wight. Mr. Stewart, the natural history
draughtsman, tells me also that he has seen it taken in bushels on
many parts of the Clyde, and that at certain seasons, while engaged in
taking coal-fish, he has found them so stuffed with whitebait that by
holding the large fish by the tail the little silvery whitebait have
fallen out in handfuls. The whitebait has become celebrated from the
mode in which it is cooked, and the excuse it affords to Londoners for
an afternoon’s excursion, as also from its forming a famous dish at the
annual fish-dinner of her Majesty’s ministers; but truth compels me
to state that there is nothing in whitebait beyond its susceptibility
of taking on a flavour from the skill of the cook. It is poor feeding
when compared to a dish of sprats, or (an illegal) fry of young
salmon; and it has been said in joke that an expert cook can make up
capital whitebait by means of flour and oil! But to eat whitebait is
a fashion of the season, and the well-served tables of the Greenwich
and Blackwall taverns, with their pleasant outlook to the river, and
their inducements of chablis and other choice wines and comestibles,
are undoubtedly very attractive, whether the persons partaking of these
dainties be ministers of state or merchants’ clerks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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