The Harvest of the Sea: A contribution to the natural and economic history of the British food fishesBertram, James Glass
Science
The Harvest of the Sea: A contribution to the natural and economic history of the British food fishes
Bertram, James Glass
Fish culture; Fisheries -- Great Britain; Fishes
Ever since the apocryphal period of this legend, men have gone on
eating oysters. Poets, princes, pontiffs, orators, statesmen, and wits
have gluttonised over the oyster-bed. Oysters were at one time, it is
true, in danger of being forgotten. From the fourth century to about
the fifteenth they were not much in use; but from that date to the
present time the demand has never slackened. Going back to the times
which we now regard as classic, we are told—as I will by and by relate
in more detail when I come to describe the art of oyster-farming—that
we owe the original idea of pisciculture to a certain Sergius Orata,
who invented an oyster-pond in which to breed oysters, not for his
own table, but for profit. We have all read of the feasts and
fish-dinners of the classic Italians. These were on a scale, as has
been already indicated, far surpassing our modern banquets at Greenwich
and Blackwall, even though the charge for these be, as was recently
complained in the _Times_, two and three guineas for each person.
Talking of fish-dinners reminds me of a description I have read of a
dish produced in China containing juvenile crabs. On the cover being
removed the crablets jump out on the table and are greedily seized
and eaten by the guests who are assembled. The dish is filled with
vinegar, which imparts great liveliness to the young creatures. The
shell is soft and gelatinous, and the _morceau_ is highly palatable.
Lucullus had sea-water brought to his villa in canals from the coast
of Campania, in which he bred fish in such abundance for the use of
his guests that not less than £35,000 worth was sold at his death.
Vitellius ate oysters all day long, and some people insinuate that he
could eat as many as a thousand at one sitting—a happiness too great
for belief! Callisthenes, the philosopher of Olynthus, was also a
passionate oyster-eater, and so was Caligula, the Roman tyrant. The
wise Seneca dallied over his few hundreds every week, and the great
Cicero nourished his eloquence with the dainty. The Latin poets sang
the praises of the oyster, and the fast men of ancient Rome enjoyed
the poetry during their carouse, just as modern fellows, not at all
classic, enjoy a song over their oysters in the parlour of a London or
provincial tavern.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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