The Harvest of the Sea: A contribution to the natural and economic history of the British food fishesBertram, James Glass
Science
The Harvest of the Sea: A contribution to the natural and economic history of the British food fishes
Bertram, James Glass
Fish culture; Fisheries -- Great Britain; Fishes
One of the most lucrative branches of foreign oyster-farming may be
now described—_i.e._ the manufacture of the celebrated green oysters.
The greening of oysters, many of which are brought from the Ile de Re
parks, is extensively carried on at Marennes, on the banks of the river
Seudre, and this particular branch of oyster industry, which extends
for leagues along the river, and is also sanctioned by free grants
from the state, has some features that are quite distinct from those
we have been considering, as the green oyster is of considerably more
value than the common white oyster. The peculiar colour and taste of
the green oyster are imparted to it by the vegetable substances which
grow in the beds where it is manipulated. This statement, however, is
scarcely an answer to the question of “why,” or rather “how,” do the
oysters become green? Some people maintain that the oyster green is
a disease of the liver-complaint kind, whilst there are others who
attribute the green colour to a parasite that overgrows the mollusc.
But the mode of culture adopted is in itself a sufficient answer to
the question. The industry carried on at Marennes consists chiefly of
the fattening in claires, and the oysters operated upon are at one
period of their lives as white as those which are grown at any other
place; indeed it is only after being steeped for a year or two in the
muddy ponds of the river Seudre that they attain their much-prized
green hue. The enclosed ponds for the manufacture of these oysters—and,
according to all epicurean authority, the green oyster becomes “_the_
oyster _par excellence_”—require to be watertight, for they are not
submerged by the sea, except during very high tides. Each claire is
about one hundred feet square. The walls for retaining the waters
require therefore to be very strong; they are composed of low but broad
banks of earth, five or six feet thick at the base and about three feet
in height. These walls are also useful as forming a promenade on which
the watchers or workers can walk to and fro and view the different
ponds. The flood-gates for the admission of the tide require also to
be thoroughly watertight and to fit with great precision, as the stock
of oysters must always be kept covered with water; but a too frequent
flow of the tide over the ponds is not desirable, hence the walls,
which serve the double purpose of both keeping in and keeping out the
water. A trench or ditch is cut in the inside of each pond for the
better collection of the green slime left at each flow of the tide, and
many tidal inundations are necessary before the claire is thoroughly
prepared for the reception of its stock. When all these matters of
construction and slime-collecting have been attended to, the oysters
are then scattered over the ground, and left to fatten. When placed in
these greening claires they are usually from twelve to sixteen months
old, and they must remain for a period of two years at least before
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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