The Harvest of the Sea: A contribution to the natural and economic history of the British food fishesBertram, James Glass
Science
The Harvest of the Sea: A contribution to the natural and economic history of the British food fishes
Bertram, James Glass
Fish culture; Fisheries -- Great Britain; Fishes
The chief centre in England for the distribution of oysters is
Billingsgate, and the countless thousands of bushels of this
molluscous dainty which find their way through “Oyster Street” to
this Fish Exchange mark the everlasting demand. Oysters are sold by
the bushel, and every measure is made to pay a toll of fourpence, and
another sum of a like amount for carriage to the shore. All oysters
sold at Billingsgate are liable to this eightpenny tax. The London
oysters—and I regret to say it, for there is nothing finer than a
genuine oyster—are sophisticated in the cellars of the buyers, by being
stuffed with oatmeal till the flavour is all but lost in the fat.
The flavour of oysters—like the flavour of all other animals—depends
on their feeding. The fine _goût_ of the highly-relished Prestonpans
oysters is said to be derived from the fact of their feeding on the
refuse liquor which flows from the saltpans of that neighbourhood. I
have eaten of fine oysters taken from a bank that was visited by a
rather questionable stream of water; they were very large, fat, and
of exquisite flavour, the shell being more than usually well filled
with “meat.” What the London oysters gain in fat by artificial feeding
they assuredly lose in flavour. The harbour of Kinsale (a receptacle
for much filth) used to be remarkable for the size and flavour of its
oysters. The beds occupied the whole harbour, and the oysters there
were at one time very plentiful, and far exceeded the Cork oysters in
fame (and they have long been famous); but they were so overfished as
to be long since used up, much to the loss of the Irish people, who are
particularly fond of oysters, and delight in their “Pooldoodies” and
“Red-banks” as much as the English and Scotch do in their “Natives”
and “Pandores.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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