The Harvest of the Sea: A contribution to the natural and economic history of the British food fishesBertram, James Glass
Science
The Harvest of the Sea: A contribution to the natural and economic history of the British food fishes
Bertram, James Glass
Fish culture; Fisheries -- Great Britain; Fishes
Newhaven is most celebrated for its “fishwives,” who were declared by
King George IV. to be the handsomest women he had ever seen, and were
looked upon by Queen Victoria with eyes of wonder and admiration. The
Newhaven fishwife must not be confounded by those who are unacquainted
in the locality with the squalid fish-hawkers of Dublin; nor, although
they can use strong language occasionally, are they to be taken as
examples of the _genus_ peculiar to Billingsgate. The Newhaven women
are more like the buxom _dames_ of the market of Paris, though their
glory of late years has been somewhat dulled. There is this, however,
to be said of them, that they are as much of the past as the present;
in dress and manners they are the same now as they were a hundred
years ago; they take a pride in conserving all their traditions and
characteristics, so that their customs appear unchangeable, and are
never, at any rate, influenced by the alterations which art, science,
and literature produce on the country at large. Before the railway
era, the Newhaven fishwife was a great fact, and could be met with
in Edinburgh in her picturesque costume of short but voluminous and
gaudy petticoats, shouting “Caller herrings!” or “Wha’ll buy my caller
cod?” with all the energy that a strong pair of lungs could supply.
Then, in the evening, there entered the city the oyster-wench, with
her prolonged musical aria of “Wha’ll o’ caller ou?” But the spread
of fishmongers’ shops and the increase of oyster-taverns is doing
away with this picturesque branch of the business. Thirty years ago
nearly the whole of the fishermen of the Firth of Forth, in view of the
Edinburgh market, made for Newhaven with their cargoes of white fish;
and these, at that time, were all bought up by the women, who carried
them on their backs to Edinburgh in creels, and then hawked them
through the city. The sight of a bevy of fishwives in the streets of
the Modern Athens, although comparatively rare, may still occasionally
be enjoyed; but the railways have lightened their labours, and we do
not find them climbing the _Whale Brae_ with a hundredweight, or two
hundredweight, perhaps, of fish, to be sold in driblets, for a few
pence, all through Edinburgh.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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