The Harvest of the Sea: A contribution to the natural and economic history of the British food fishesBertram, James Glass
Science
The Harvest of the Sea: A contribution to the natural and economic history of the British food fishes
Bertram, James Glass
Fish culture; Fisheries -- Great Britain; Fishes
the coast tribe is “the herring.” This abounding and delightful fish,
which can be taken at one place or another from January to December,
yields a six weeks’ fishing in the autumn of the year, to which, as has
already been stated, all the fisher-folk look forward with hope, as
a period of money-making, and which, so far as the young people are
concerned, is generally expected to end, like the third volume of a
love-story, in matrimony.
Taking a jump from Auchmithie, it is desirable to pause a moment at the
small fishing village of Findon, in the parish of Banchory-Devenick, in
Kincardineshire, in order to say a few words about a branch of industry
in connection with the fisheries that is peculiar to Scotland. Yarmouth
is famed for its “bloaters,” a preparation of herrings slightly
smoked, well known over England; and in Scotland, as has already been
mentioned in a previous chapter, there is that unparagoned dainty,
the “Finnan haddock,” the best accompaniment that can be got to the
other substantial components of a Scottish breakfast. Indeed, the
Finnan haddock is celebrated as a breakfast luxury all over the world,
although it is so delicate in its flavour, and requires such nicety in
the cure, that it cannot be enjoyed in perfection at any great distance
from the sea-coast. George IV., who had certainly, whatever may have
been his other virtues, a kingly genius in the matter of relishes
for the palate (does not the world owe to him the discovery of the
exquisite propriety of the sequence of port wine after cheese?), used
to have genuine Finnan haddocks always on his breakfast-table, selected
at Aberdeen and sent express by coach every day for his Majesty’s
use. Great houses of brick have now been erected at various places
on the Moray Firth and elsewhere; and in these immense quantities of
haddocks and other fish are smoked for the market by means of burning
billets of green wood. Formerly the fisher-folk used to smoke a few
haddocks in their cottages over their peat-fires for family use. I
have already described how the fame of the Finnan haddock arose. The
trade soon grew so large that it required a collection to be made in
the fishing districts in order to get together the requisite quantity;
so that what was once a mere local effort has now become a prominent
branch of the fish trade. But it is seldom that the home-smoked
fish can be obtained, with its delicate flavour of peat-reek. The
manufactured Finnan or yellow haddock, smoked in a huge warehouse,
is more plentiful, of course, but it has lost the old relish. It
is pleasant to see the clean fireside and the clear peat-fire in
the comfortably-furnished cottage, with the children sitting round
the ingle on the long winter evenings, listening to the tales and
traditions of the coast, the fish hanging all over the reeking peats,
acquiring the while that delicate yellow tinge so refreshing to the
eyes of all lovers of a choice dish.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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