The Haunts of Old CockaigneThompson, Alexander M. (Alexander Mattock)
General
The Haunts of Old Cockaigne
Thompson, Alexander M. (Alexander Mattock)
London (England) -- Description and travel
We ran, as I have since ascertained, through Euston Square,
Tavistock Square, Bloomsbury Square, Bedford Square, twice round
Russell Square, and then somehow got back to Euston. Then John
stopped. The fact was he was lost. But he put a bold front on the
matter, and said we would go and dance with the London 'prentice
lads and fair-haired Saxon maids, first at Westminster and then at
Tower Green. He told me he had seen pictures in which the youth
of Britain, in gaily-coloured attire, were shown dancing round
garlanded and festooned poles. He fancied the sports were held at
Westminster. But was sure some were held on Tower Hill. Was I brave
enough to join the venture and risk the after-part?
I was a nice, well-meaning boy, but before his dazzling array of
temptations I fell at once.
John knew a little English--learnt at the Lycée St. Louis--but,
as he confided to me after several interviews with the ignorant
Londoners, these persons did not understand their own tongue; and it
seemed to take a long time to teach it them.
So we trudged again through the dreadful, dreary, desolate squares,
with their carefully railed regulation patches of soot-gardens, and
indefinable, uniform air of hypochondriacal blight.
I believe we should have walked round and round those grim and
forbidding dwelling-boxes all day, had we not, after many attempts,
discovered a man who knew a little French, and who offered to take
us down to Westminster.
John asked him about the Squares. "Are they barracks?" he said, "or
workmen's dwellings?"
"_Mais, non_," answered our guide, looking shocked, "they are the
dwellings of the most respectable people."
Again that mystic word "respectable." Again the atmosphere of
dignified dumps and dingy sulkiness. And father had told us that
"respectability" was "an honourable nature." London honour seemed a
sad thing.
The story of that day's spree ought to be published as a
Sunday-school tract. It was the most chastening experience I ever
underwent.
A few months later we were in the midst of barricades and street
massacres in Paris; but even that weird experience has left no such
impression of blank and heavy gloom upon my memory as the dismal
reconnaissance into the London Sabbath and British respectability
whereof this is the true account.
Those miles of deserted and colourless streets under the narrow
glimpses of leaden sky, with the solitary heavy figure of the large
British policeman everlastingly in the foreground--_mon Dieu!_ in
what clammy, icy bands of unrelieved wretchedness they strangled the
exuberance of our boyish hearts upon that dull September Sunday!
Besides, I wore my Sunday boots.
The man who spoke French, or who, at least, understood some of
John's English, left us at Charing Cross, and we went on alone to
the joyous dance and revels of Westminster.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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