Importance of Bontok--Head-taking--Atonement for bloodshed.--Sports.--Slapping game. CHAPTER XIX The native village.--Houses.--Pit-a-pit.--Native institutions.--Lumawig. CHAPTER XX We push on north.--Banana skirts.--Albino child.--Pine uplands.--Glorious view. CHAPTER XXI Deep Valley.--A poor _ranchería_.--Escort of boys.--Descent of Tinglayan Hill.--Sullen reception at Tinglayan.--Bangad.--First view of the Kalingas.--Arrival at Lubuagan. CHAPTER XXII Splendid appearance of the Kalingas.--Dancing.--Lubuagan.--_Basi_--Councils.--Bustles and braids.--Jewels and weapons.--Excellent houses. CHAPTER XXIII We leave the mountains.--Nanong.--Passage of the Chico.--The Apayao.--Tabuk.--The party breaks up.--Desolate plain--The Cagayán Valley.--Enrile. CHAPTER XXIV Tobacco industry.--Tuguegarao.--Caves.--The Cagayán River.--Barangayans.--Aparri.--Island of Fuga.--Sail for Manila.--Stop at Vigan.--Arrival at Manila. CHAPTER XXV Future of the Highlanders.--Origin of our effort to improve their condition.--Impolicy of any change in present administration.-- Transfer of control of wild tribes to Christianized Filipinos.--Comparison of our course with that of the Japanese in Formosa. APPENDIX LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. An Igorot Warrior Hon. Dean C. Worcester Views of the Benguet Road Working on the Benguet Road Padre Juan Villaverde Benguet Road, Zig-zag Tree Fern, Province of Bontok Ilongot Women Native Policemen Reception Committee of Ifugaos Mountain Scene in the Ifugao Country Mountain Scene between Benawe and Kiangan Inaba, Ifugao Village Ifugao Couple with Adornments of a Wedding Ceremony Ifugao Children Headless Body of Ifugao Warrior Ifugao Warrior Typical Ifugao House Ifugao Making Rounds of Granary Anitos, Kiangan Ifugao Chief Making a Speech Conference between Government Officers and the Headmen of the District Ifugao Head-hunter, Full Dress Head-hunter Dance, Kiangan Dancing at Kiangan Ifugaos Dancing Silipan Ifugao Earring Ifugaos Dancing, Benawe Crossing Ibilao River by Flying Trolley Ifugao Head Dance Rice Terraces at Benawe Body of Igorot Girl Prepared for Burial Carabao Fight Igorot Tribunal A Bontok Igorot House Igorot Rice Fields On the Trail from Benguet to Cervantes Bontok Igorot Woman Elaborate Tattooing of the Head-hunter Bontok Igorot Constabulary Soldiers Bontok Igorot Slapping Game _Gansas_ with Human Jaws as Handles Women and Girls Wearing Banana-leaf Skirts New School-house, Bontok Valley of the Rio Chico Kalinga Girl Looking Down the Rio Chico Spiral Camote Patch Madallam, Kalinga Headman Two Headmen of Lubuagan Kalinga Warriors Typical Kalinga House Conference at Lubuagan View of Lubuagan, Capital of Kalinga Kalinga Head-ax Igorot Shield Ifugao Carved Bowl Ifugao Pipe, Carved Figure, and Wooden Spoon Carved Wooden Figurines Map of Northern Luzon PREFACE