The heart of Africa, Vol. 1 (of 2)Schweinfurth, Georg August
Science
The heart of Africa, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Schweinfurth, Georg August
Africa, Central -- Description and travel; Schweinfurth, Georg August, 1836-1925 -- Travel -- Africa, Central
Here, at his usual resort, I met Muntass Bey, the Governor of Suakin.
His residence consisted of a Sammor-acacia, with foliage
wide-spreading like a parasol. Under the shadow of this commodious and
airy roof, common to all, was served the midday meal. Some tents in
the immediate proximity were provided as places of refuge from the
rain. A storm of unusual violence broke over us in the course of the
day, and changed the centre of the valley into a foaming torrent, 200
paces wide, for three hours; the flood rushed onwards with unabated
strength and sought the sea. I found shelter in a guard-room built of
blocks of stone and clay, the quarters of the garrison of 200
Bazibozuks. After the rain the temperature was lowered to a refreshing
coolness, and on the following morning I rejoiced to register a
temperature of 68° F.
[Sidenote: SUMMER RETREATS.]
Whilst I stayed in Singat, I always at dinner-time found an open table
beneath the Governor’s great tree. This was rendered enjoyable not
more by the skill of the cook than by the harmony of the Egyptian
singers, whom the Bey had in his suite. The camels, which I had hired
in Suakin, were meanwhile sent away to the pastures in the
neighbouring valleys, to be recruited against their approaching
fatigues. The camel drivers were by no means in a hurry to start, as
time was not of the smallest value to them. A trip of five days in the
lofty mountains of Erkoweet, eight or ten leagues to the south-east of
Singat, unclosed to my researches the vegetable treasures of this most
northerly spur of the Abyssinian highland, hitherto unexplored; and
was full of enjoyment, equally beneficial both to mind and body.
Erkoweet is another summer retreat for the people of Suakin. The
valley in which the tents are pitched is called Harrasa, and discloses
the whole flora of the Abyssinian highland in wonderful and complete
luxuriance. Euphorbiæ and dracænæ deck the mountains in masses which
might almost be reckoned by millions, so that the slopes in the
distance have the appearance of being covered with huge black patches.
From amongst innumerable projections of granite, mostly dome-shaped
and adorned with charming foliage, there juts forth one huge slanting
mass of mountain, which is probably the highest elevation of the
district of Suakin, if not of the entire chain which runs along the
coast. I ascended this peak nearly 6000 feet in altitude, and was
amply repaid for the exertion by the magnificent prospect before me.
There was extreme enjoyment in the freshness of the air. The whole
contour of the coast lay stretched in clear and perfect outline. The
whole confused system of the mountains of the coast lay like a map
below my feet. In a circumference of seventy miles I plainly
recognised single masses, so that the peaks known to me in my earlier
visits served as landmarks to inform me of my true position.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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