Through this lane of bright colour moves the crowd--the women young,
straight, and mostly beautiful in a dark, passionate way; the old
women fat and round; the men sallow, bearded, and incredibly
wrinkled. Among them crowd the abject creatures so well known in the
East, who clutch a handful of vegetables or three inferior lemons
with which they try to undersell the regular merchants.
Where is it? It might be Cairo, Bagdad, Jerusalem, Aleppo, Tunis, or
Tangier, but, as a matter of fact, it is Petticoat Lane in
Whitechapel--a penny ride from Ludgate Hill!
As I walked through Petticoat Lane I thought that if we had a sunny
climate this part of Whitechapel would become one of the famous
show-places of the world. Here you have the East without its lepers,
without small-pox, without the flies, without the impertinent stinks.
This is the scene of rich and amusing variety which, were it only a
few thousand expensive miles from London, under a blue sky, would
attract the attention of the artist and the traveller.
The attitude towards commerce is as old as barter. I saw a neatly
bearded woman, whose brown coat looked as though it was draped over a
barrel, go up to a fishmonger, standing beside two gigantic codfish
and a number of smaller fish.
"How much?" asked the woman, indicating a nice group of still life.
"Six shillings," replied the fishmonger, with a keen glance from
small, black eyes.
"One and ten," remarked the woman, reflectively turning a plaice
upside down and prodding it with a fat finger.
Whereupon a singular change took place in the fishmonger's aloof
attitude. He was insulted, outraged. Suddenly, picking up a plaice
by the tail, he said with a threatening gesture:
"I'll wipe it acrost yeh face!"
The customer was not outraged as a woman would have been in Oxford
Street; she just shrugged her fat shoulders, as she would have done
in Damascus, and moved away, knowing full well that before she had
retreated very far she would be recalled--as she was. After a brisk
argument she bought the fish for two and fourpence and they parted
friends!
I have seen exactly the same drama played on a carpet in Alexandria.
* * *
What strange foreign eatables you see here: vile-looking messy
dishes, anæmic cucumbers, queer salted meats, varied sausages of East
European origin, the inevitable onion, and, of course, olives.
Smoked salmon has customers at ten shillings a pound.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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