In the grey dawn liners from the Seven Seas slip into the docks of
London; and men and women gather there to meet friends. Some even
meet their sweethearts. They are the lucky ones. It was not yet
light. Dawn was a good hour away, and it was very cold. I was
travelling away from London towards Woolwich in a jangling, dirty
workman's train. On the platform at Fenchurch Street I had noticed
several other people obviously on their way to meet friends, but they
had been assimilated in the gloom of the long train; and I was glad,
for I was enjoying myself in a carriage full of dock workers: a
carriage that reeked of smoke and manly conversation. The train
ploughed wearily on through the darkness, stopping at stations....
Stepney East.... Burdett Road.... Bromley.... Canning Town....
Bleak, unfriendly places under their pale lights. More early
Londoners stormed the carriage at each station and split pleasantries
rather like roadmen hitting a spike:
"Goo' mornin', Bill...."
"It ain't a goo' mornin'. It's a blinkin' cold mornin'!"
The laughter could not have been louder if the retort had been made
by a judge or a king!
The conversation was both technical and sporting. The technical
discussion centred round the life and shortcomings of a certain
foreman, who, I gathered, although he knew less about a ship than a
---- ---- school-teacher, was, if not a man of iron, at least a man
of blood. So they said. Football and racing! They knew the
parentage, habits, and hobbies of every League player, also the
result of contests going right back to ancient times. They all had
"a bit" on the three-thirty.
* * *
North Woolwich! In the still air of dawn I could feel the nearness
of shipping. I could not see much, but I knew that I was surrounded
by ships. The docks were not awake. The steam winches were not
screaming, the hammers were stilled; yet over the dark docks lay the
presence of great ships home from sea....
I walked on past the shrouded cranes, standing in their straight
lines near the water's side. I came upon a tall ship looming up like
a cliff. I could make out a man leaning over her deck far above. I
asked him if this was the ship I wanted. He opened his mouth, and
there descended curious, unwilling sounds, like something trying hard
to escape from his throat and then changing its mind and trying to
get back again. I think he was talking Japanese.
So I walked along to the stern of the ship to read the name, and
there I met a man gazing upward, too. It turned out that we were
both looking for the same ship, so we walked on together.
"What an experience it is," he said. "I wonder how many people in
London have ever done this. I'm generally asleep at this time of the
morning. How early London wakes up. Think of those workmen's
trains...."
"Are you meeting a friend in the ----," I asked.
He coughed slightly and said, "Yes," and the way he said it told me
that it was going to be a romantic occasion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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