The Heart of ScotlandMoncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
History
The Heart of Scotland
Moncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
Perthshire (Scotland) -- Description and travel
It is only fourteen miles to Dunkeld from Perth, whence houses on the
Grampian slope may be made out on a clear day. Strangers here who would
take the very shortest way for a peep at the Highlands may now from
Strathord station reach Bankfoot on a light railway up the Ordie Burn,
and over the native heath of Robert Nicoll, who, but for an early death
and his consuming zeal for reforming politics, might have been better
known as a Perthshire Burns.
Sae weel I lo’ed a’ things of earth--
The trees, the buds, the flowers,
The sun, the moon, the lochs and glens,
The Spring’s and Summer’s hours,--
A wither’d woodland twig would bring
The tears into my eye,
Laugh on! but there are souls of love
In laddies herding kye.
Beyond Bankfoot and its annexe Waterloo, the road comes to close
quarters with the mountains, where it winds up to a rugged face of woods
and grouse moors, then under Rohallion joins the river and the railway
in the pass of Birnam, guarded by the village city of Dunkeld. Here we
leave the valley of Strathmore to enter one of the famous Highland
gates, at the mouth of which a watery hollow called the Stare-dam was
long a place of dread to wild mountaineers, for whom its “Hanged Men’s
Trees” made such a warning as did the “kind gallows” of Crieff.
Of Dunkeld, the Highland border town, I gave account in _Bonnie
Scotland_, so that here I will rather repeat what has been said about it
by others. The Rev. Prebendary Gilpin, that original of _Dr. Syntax in
search of the Picturesque_, who had found Arthur’s Seat “odd, misshapen
and uncouth,” unpleasing from every point of view, except that the
streets of London had been paved out of its quarries, this severe critic
is more gracious to Dunkeld, where “the wild unshapely desert begins to
separate into parts, and form itself into hills, hung with wood and
broken with rock.” He can find no fault with the Tay, here “broad, deep
and silent,” nor with “the grand screen of mountains” encircling it; and
our generation is not much concerned with his criticism that it will
take a century for the woods to grow up so as “to give a proper degree
of sylvan richness to the scene.” Since then the woods have had time to
clothe this fine amphitheatre, some inaccessible crag faces having been
planted by the device of firing canisters filled with seeds against them
from a cannon. Mr. Gilpin goes so far as to applaud Nature’s efforts in
the side ravine of the Braan, though he shakes his head over the duke’s
“improvements,” such as often caused so much division of opinion among
those pundits of the picturesque. He agrees with our taste in condemning
the “Claud Lorraine glasses” and other optical devices with which the
Hermitage at the Falls of Braan was furnished, being “apt to believe
that Nature has given us a better apparatus for viewing objects in a
picturesque light than any the optician can furnish.” Also he shows very
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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