The Heart of ScotlandMoncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
History
The Heart of Scotland
Moncrieff, A. R. Hope (Ascott Robert Hope)
Perthshire (Scotland) -- Description and travel
Kinnell House, the Macnabs’ chief seat, is now a favourite residence of
Lord Breadalbane, in which are preserved some odd relics of that last
laird, his frying-pan, his kail-pot, and so on. But the glory of the
place--Auchmore, as it is also called--is its famous vine that, to the
reproach of your Dr. Johnsons, can boast itself the largest in Britain,
and still goes on growing exuberantly, though it has been decided that
no more glass room can be provided for it.
Killin well deserves its renown in the tourist world, presenting a
lovely mixture of Highland and Lowland aspects. Its two rivers make the
same contrast, the leafy pools of the Lochay to be compared to the
tranquillising influences that have prevailed in Loch Tay, while the
untamed rapids of the Dochart suggest the wild mountain spirit dashed to
foam against rocks of hard fact. But the Lochay, too, up its beautiful
glen, has cascades and other features of romance such as we look for a
little farther back in Lowland life; and if the people forget their
Gaelic and their legends, Nature still wears her garb of bracken and
heather.
A plain sign of new times is the branch railway, link in a tourist round
that a few miles from Killin falls in with the line from Callander to
Oban. Here, turning back Lowlandwards, the rocky wilds of Glen Ogle lead
us towards the softer beauties of Loch Earn, which we shall approach
from the other end. Up Glen Dochart the railway runs into the higher yet
opener reach of Strath Fillan; and here for a little it has the close
companionship of its rival, the West Highland line, struggling on to Ben
Nevis over lofty wastes of heather. At Crianlarich the two lines cross,
then they draw apart at Tyndrum, under the ridge of Ben Lui, that
cradles the infant Tay, as yet unchristened, unless by its nursery name
of Fillan Water, where it gambols down to swell Loch Dochart, at the
foot of Ben More. By its course, along the line of the Oban railway, the
Campbells must have flowed into Breadalbane from their spring at
Kilchurn Castle on Loch Awe. But beyond the head of Strath Fillan the
streams flow to the Atlantic; and here we turn back from the Argyllshire
gates of the Western Highlands.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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