Emerging from this prehistoric fortress, camp, and cattle-station at
its western extremity, a short but hilly walk leads to the charming
village of Upwey, nestling at the foot of a well-wooded hill where
rises a spring of water, the source of the little River Wey. Upwey
Church is a very interesting one of Perpendicular date. Some portions
of the picturesque old mill here are introduced into the _Trumpet-Major_,
but their locality has been moved to Sutton (Overcombe), a few miles
away. Beyond the mill a sharp turn to the left joins the main road we
left to reach Maiden Castle. Here, on the old vicinal way of the
Romans, stands the "Ship" inn, the hostel wherein Dick Dewy and Fancy
Day became definitely engaged after their accidental meeting by the
King's statue at Budmouth. Close at hand is the Ridgeway, the place
where the Overcombe folk waited all night to see the King arrive; and
where the opening scene of the first act of _The Dynasts_ is laid.
Adjoining the Ridgeway is Bincombe Down, with its steep, grass-covered
sides rising sheer from the straggling village below. Mr. Hardy
writes: "The eye of any observer who cared for such things swept over
the wave-washed town (Weymouth) and the bay beyond, and the Isle, with
its pebble bank, lying on the sea to the left of these, like a great
crouching animal tethered to the mainland".
On this hill the soldiers were encamped in readiness to repel
Napoleon's threatened invasion, and here came the Mill party in the
_Trumpet-Major_, to see the review, and to overhear the exclamations
of the excited rustics: "There's King Jarge!" "That's Queen Sharlett!"
"Princess Sophiar and Mellyer!" In the _Melancholy Hussar_ Blagdon is
depicted as the spot whereon Tina and Christoph were shot as
deserters.
From Upwey a fine walk along the Waddon Valley, the scene of _The
Lacking Sense_; past Corton Church, with its pre-Reformation stone
altar, and the Jacobean farmhouse of Waddon; and through the charming
hamlet of Coryates, leads to Portisham, or Po'sham, one of the most
interesting of the villages that lie at the back of the Chesil Beach.
On the outskirts of the village a little stone-roofed house, almost
covered with creepers, was the home of Thomas Masterman Hardy, the
Flag-captain of the _Victory_, in whose arms Nelson died. The house is
still occupied by the descendants of the gallant seaman, one of three
Dorset captains at Trafalgar, and many relics of their famous ancestor
are preserved within the dwelling. It was to this house that Bob
Loveday came to visit Captain Hardy when he thought of joining the
crew of the _Victory_.
High above the village, on Blackdown or Blagdon Hill, stands the Hardy
Monument that forms a conspicuous land- and sea-mark for many miles
around.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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