With the exception of Casterbridge, Budmouth figures more frequently
in the Wessex novels than any other place, and is especially prominent
in _The Trumpet-Major_. By the statue of King George, "wonderfully and
fearfully made", Dick Dewy met Fancy Day; and the bridge over the
harbour is mentioned in the _Well-Beloved_. Bob Loveday was familiar
with its harbour, and his brother John knew its barracks; and here
Anne Garland studied the latest fashions. It was on the esplanade that
Festus Derriman cut "a fine figure of a soldier", and here Jocelyn
Pierston was staying when he met with two incarnations of the
Well-Beloved. In _The Dynasts_, the interview between King George and
Pitt takes place at Gloucester Lodge, and in the Old Rooms Inn across
the harbour the Battle of Trafalgar was discussed.
Some four miles to the south of Weymouth lies the "Isle of Slingers"
(Portland), the pleasantest way to reach which is by one of the
numerous steamers that make the trip. Entering an opening in the great
breakwater that encloses the mighty roadstead of Portland, the visitor
will notice the ruins of an old castle that stand on the edge of a
sandy and rapidly disappearing cliff. This is all that is left of
Sandsfoot Castle, built in the time of Henry VIII, and the "right
goodlie Castel" of Leland's day. This was the place appointed by
Pierston for his farewell to Avice. Our little craft threads her way
quickly through the mighty battleships and cruisers that lie securely
within this murally enclosed basin of sea, and we glide into the
little harbour at the base of the mighty rock. The first aspect of the
place, owing partly to the absence of trees, is stern and rather
uninviting, but, for those who know it, the rocky mass of Portland has
many attractions. From the high land a fine view is obtained of the
Chesil Beach, that extraordinary bank of pebbles that connects the
"island" with the mainland at Abbotsbury, ten miles away. Farther west
is Bridport, the "Port Bredy" of the novels, and a pleasantly situated
town, whose marine suburb of West Bay contains a useful little harbour
wherein vessels of a small tonnage can enter at high tides. Six miles
to the north of Bridport is Beaminster (Emminster), the home of Angel
Clare, whither Tess made her way in the hope of obtaining news of her
husband.
Interesting as is the rock of Portland as seen from the Bill or from
the sandy little cove of Church Ope, the seaward faces of the
promontory are best observed from the deck of a boat, when all the
elements that go usually to form a picture on a level surface are here
raised nearly to the perpendicular, and, by reflecting the sun's rays
at a slight angle, produce effects as violent in their nature as they
are startling in their novelty of colour. In _The Souls of the Slain_,
the Bill or Beal of Portland is well described:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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