The village of West Lulworth is rather barren of interest, and the
little trade of the place seems to be confined entirely to
administering to the necessities of visitors and pilgrims. Sad to
relate, this secluded spot, where untrammelled nature has reigned
supreme for centuries, is beginning to show signs of ugly modernity,
and bathing cabins are encroaching on its encircling belt of shingle.
Nothing, however, can vulgarize Lulworth except in patches, for,
modernize it how you will, it will always retain its rugged crags that
tower above its sea margin, and the complex witchery of its
rock-bestrewn coast. The background of Millais's famous picture, "The
Departure of the Romans" is a view of the Dorset coast looking from
the cliffs of Lulworth towards Weymouth, the standpoint being Dungy,
with St. Oswald's Bay in the foreground, and Whitenose terminating the
splendid lateral prospect of the cliffs. It is a singularly literal
rendering of the scene. At the same time learned historians tell us
that it is by no means certain that any of the Roman legions left this
country by way of the Dorset coast.
The greatest architectural attraction of the neighbourhood is Lulworth
Castle, standing in a finely wooded park of 640 acres. The building is
in the form of a cube, and is of early Jacobean date, having been
built almost entirely with material from the Abbey of Bindon, near
Wool, when such was demolished at the Reformation. The façade of the
edifice is ornamented with heraldic shields and allegorical figures
representing Music and Painting. In 1641 it was purchased by the Weld
family, who still own it. It was visited by James I and Charles II,
while George III and his family were frequent visitors during their
residence at Weymouth. Charles X, when exiled from France in 1830,
also found asylum here, by the hospitality of Mr. Joseph Weld. The
interior of the castle may be seen on application to the Lulworth
Estate Office at Wool, and it is well worth while to apply for
permission, as the house contains some fine apartments and a curious
set of portraits painted by Giles Hussey, a native of Marnhull, the
harmony of whose colour-scheme was corrected by a musical scale. The
Welds are a Roman Catholic family of whom the famous Cardinal Weld was
the most prominent member.
[Illustration: WOOL HOUSE]
Close to the Castle stands the Protestant church on the south side and
the Catholic chapel on the north. The latter, built in 1786 by the
special leave of George III, was described by Fanny Burney as "a
Pantheon in miniature, and ornamented with immense wealth and
richness. The altar is all of the finest variegated marbles, and
precious stones are glittering from every angle", a description that
holds good to-day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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