The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
The cuirass of the Household troops which they wear on important
occasions, as well as the metal helmets of various regiments, are
survivals from the time when armour was of use, and if we examine the
shoulders of certain soldiers, we shall find that there are vestiges of
chain mail, though now this only takes the place of epaulettes. (See
Figure 145.) To see chain mail in its perfection we must go back to the
time of Edward I, and if we look, for instance, at the brass of Sir
John D'Aubernoun (who died in the year 1277) or of Sir Richard de
Trumpington, A.D. 1289 (see Figure 146), which are the earliest
remaining in this country, we shall find that the chain mail now
represented by a little patch on the shoulder then covered the head and
neck, arms and hands, body, feet and legs.
[Illustration: FIG. 145.--Relic of chain mail on the shoulder of an
Imperial Yeoman.]
As time went on, plate armour was mixed with the mail, until at last, in
the time of Henry IV, we get the complete plate period in which there
was a breastplate and a corresponding back plate, which had already
appeared in the period of transition of chain mail to plate armour. From
thence onward the development of armour progressed until it gradually
disappeared. In Stuart times, jack boots and spur leathers took the
place of the armour on the legs, and a buff coat that on the body, with
the exception of a gorget. This came to be in the early part of the
nineteenth century, merely a small badge of the officer on duty, and in
a still more diminished form is to be seen in some foreign armies.
[Illustration: FIG. 146.--Chain mail illustrated by the brass of Sir
Richard de Trumpington, A.D. 1289.]
In the earlier part of the book it was made evident that military
uniforms afford a fine field for research, though apart from the remains
of armour, however, they are comparatively modern. It was not, indeed,
until the reign of Charles II that we meet with uniforms regularly
adopted by the Army; and the red coat which has given its name to
the soldier, though many regiments are dressed in other colours, was
previous to that time merely a best coat. We see it now on fox-hunters
and golfers, though a long coat of this colour is still worn by the
King's footmen and coachmen. A writer in the _Spectator_, No. 129, says,
when speaking of Cornwall: "Here we fancied ourselves in Charles II's
reign, people having made little variation in their dress since that
time. The smartest of the country squires appear still in the Monmouth
cock; when they go a-wooing (whether they have any post in the militia
or not) they put on a red coat."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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