The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
The hoods of the Orders of the Thistle and of St. Patrick are similar
in construction, and in the case of the former the velvet of which they
are made is blue in colour. On the mantles of other Orders only the
streamer remains. On the left shoulder of the Knights of the Bath and
of St. Michael and St. George there is a small vestige of aiguillettes.
This is of silk cord in the former case, and of gold cord in the second.
The under-dress, which is not commonly worn now, is furnished with trunk
hose and silk tights, and from its appearance is known as the silver
dress. Much the same style was carried out in all the Orders that we
have up to the present had occasion to mention. In the more modern
Orders there is, of course, no such ancient under-dress.
If we have Kings and Queens at Court, we also have Kings and Queens and
Knaves among our playing-cards, and the costumes which survive on the
curious pictures which represent them in double, but without their lower
limbs, are worthy of some little attention. As a matter of fact, they
are Tudor dresses, slightly modified perhaps of recent years, but
nevertheless, a common and widespread relic of the fashions which were
in vogue when Henry VIII was going through his matrimonial troubles, and
shaking this country clear from its allegiance to the Pope.
There are two series of ceremonial dresses not immediately connected
with the State which it may be worth while to investigate. They are, in
the first place, the liveries of the City Companies, and in the second
the insignia of Masons. In the first case, on some of the gowns we find
again the chaperon appearing as a hood on the shoulder, and many of
the caps that are worn have survived for some centuries. A few of the
companies still possess their ancient embroidered hearse cloths, which
recall the early semi-religious and provident purposes of the guilds out
of which the great City Companies have developed.
There seems no doubt, too, but that the apron of the Masons is actually
derived from that worn by the craftsmen when at work, and in some
countries it is still of the same circular form as those which were used
by the English masons of the eighteenth century. Other parts of the
clothing of Masons are no doubt derived from the old guild liveries, and
in the fact that some high officials wear gauntlets we have a reminder
of the knights' armour, and possibly a survival from the time when high
officials were knights.
XXV
SURVIVALS IN MILITARY UNIFORMS
ARMOUR--PRICKERS FOR FLINT-LOCKS--FORAGE CORDS--REMINISCENCES OF
GALLANTRY--REGIMENTAL BADGES--COURTSHIP COLOURS
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