The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
We have spoken already of Punch's hump in front, and it may be
interesting in this connection to give the opinion of a Frenchman on
the subject of Punch's bodily characteristics. M. Magnin says that with
a sufficient amount of exaggeration and caricature to set aside the
suspicion of disloyalty, the Punch figure recalls the appearance of some
Gascon officer imitating the walk and demeanour of Henri IV in the Guard
Chamber of St. Germain or in the Louvre. The hump in front, he says, was
derived from the protuberance of the heavy cuirass. This is much the
same explanation as that which we have already given, though the cuirass
probably stuck out in front of its wearer even more than did the
doublet.
There is no doubt but that the French like gayer dresses than the
Italians, and we have seen that even in 1630 the clothes of Harlequin,
Pantaloon, and Scaramouch in Italy were, like those of Punch, plain
and simple; but in order to be popular in France the Pulicinella had
to dress in a new style, and it is known that already in 1649 the
puppet-show of which he is the hero had set up on the left bank of the
Seine, opposite the Louvre. When Punch got to England it was at a time
when gay clothes were worn, and some relics of these he has retained to
the present day.
Red and yellow play a considerable part in the dress of the Punch
figures used by Mr. W. H. Jesson, the members of whose family have for
generations been performers of Punch and Judy, and who is one of the few
that are still left. Punch has a very high cap of antique appearance,
with turned-up brim and a bow of ribbon on the top. The hump on his back
is almost horn-like, and forms a complete circle. It seems unlikely
that this appendage was developed from any part of costume unless
it were perhaps the liripipe; but we may rather imagine that in the
past Pulicinella may have been represented as being a hunchback, and
certainly Figure 151, taken from the statuette mentioned previously,
suggests an individual suffering from such a deformity.
Punch also wears a ruff (see Figure 153), though it is not a separate
part of his costume, as in Judy's case, where it is of lace and its
character is well shown, as it consists of more than one thickness.
Judy's head-dress is the mob cap which was fashionable in the time of
George III. (See Figure 154.)
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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