The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
Tattooing was practised by the old inhabitants of this country, by the
Jews and the earliest Egyptians: it is still carried on in modern Egypt,
chiefly on the chin, on the back of the hands, the arms and feet, the
middle of the bosom, and the forehead. It survives principally in the
case of the women of the lower classes and in the country. Among
European sailors and among the lower classes, and even occasionally
those up in high social scale, we find tattooing carried on, though the
original idea of ornamentation is lost when the decoration is covered by
clothing.
We have seen occasionally at shows--such as that organized by
Barnum--white people who have been tattooed to a very great extent, and
even in the case of Europeans the patterns tend to take off the bare
look even of the white skin. No doubt the desire to make permanent such
ornamentation as that obtained by painting, led to the introduction of
tattooing, and just as some marks suggest that they are copied from
amulets, so some amulets show traces of having been derived from tattoo
patterns. Mr. Lovett has pointed out to us that possibly the floral
designs worked on the backs of the bodices of the women of Marken, in
Holland, may have originated from tattooing, but no doubt careful
research would show some other and undoubted instances.
The painting of the face, which is intended to heighten its beauty and
hide the ravages of time, is quite another matter. It survives to the
present day, but luckily it is much less common in this country than
it was a few years ago. It does not, however, seem to have been at all
in vogue in England until the Middle Ages, though cosmetics and false
complexions were made use of by ladies in Roman times.
Fairholt[42] quotes from an old French poem of the thirteenth century
which describes the wares of a mercer who declares, "I have cotton with
which they rouge, and whitening with which they whiten themselves." The
cotton took the place of the hare's foot that is now used in making up,
to rub colour on the cheeks.
At this point we might consider patches, the use of which made it
possible to ornament the skin with patterns that could be removed at
will. These patches came into fashion in Charles I's reign, but were
banned by the Puritans. As soon, however, as Charles II came into his
own again, they made their appearance once more, and took various
fantastic shapes: owls, rings, crescents, and crowns; a coach and horses
was particularly fashionable, and in the time of Queen Anne it was
possible to tell the political views of fashionable ladies by their
faces and their fans. Party feeling ran very high at this time, and
those who were neutral wore patches on both cheeks, a Whig lady on the
right side only, while a High Church Tory dame only adorned the left,
and she wore suspended from her wrist a fan on which was depicted a
scene from the trial of Dr. Sacheverell at Westminster Hall.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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