The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
"An even layer of white is put on over the whole face and neck, with the
exception, in Japan, of two or three angular points of natural brown
skin, which are left bare at the back of the neck as a contrast. After
the face is whitened, a dab of red is rubbed in on the cheeks, below
each eye. The lips are then coloured pink with magenta, and in Japan
this colour is put on so thickly that it ceases to appear red, but takes
on the iridescent metallic green tint of the crystallized aniline
colour.
"In modern Japanese picture books, the lips of girls may sometimes be
seen to be represented thus green. I suppose the idea is that such
application of paint shows a meritorious disregard for expense. It is
curious that the use of aniline colour should have so rapidly spread in
China and Japan. In China, at least, such was not to be expected; but it
seems to have supplanted the old rouge, and it is sold spread on folding
cards, with Chinese characters on them, at Canton and in Japan. This
form of painting the face seems to be exactly of the same nature as
savage painting."
The likeness of this painting to that of our clowns is of course quite
obvious.
Sometimes the painting of the body has a practical advantage. The
Andaman Islanders plaster themselves with a mixture of lard and coloured
earth, which protects their skin from the heat and mosquitoes; but, as
Dr. Tylor points out, they go off into love of display when they proceed
to draw lines on the paint with their fingers, or when a dandy will
colour one side of his face red and the other olive-green, and make an
ornamental border-line where the two colours meet down his chest and
abdomen.
Fashions in paint were quite as slavishly followed as any other, and,
as we see, have died hard. It is not a very far cry from painting to
tattooing. Of savages, Théophile Gautier has said that, having no
clothes to embroider, they embroider themselves. Scar tattooing is
connected with various rites such as are followed when a brave arrives
at manhood, and certainly tattooing serves to indicate the family or
tribe to which the ornamented person belongs. There is no doubt,
however, that the intention of much tattooing is to increase individual
beauty. Excellent examples of this are to be found in the case of the
Maoris, whose faces were most elaborately covered with designs. We are
kindly permitted to reproduce some of the drawings which General Robley
has made from specimens in his magnificent collection (see Plate X,
Figure D). The practice now, however, is dying out. Of the Formosans it
is said that their skins are covered with flower patterns until they
look like damask.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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