The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
The practice of wearing masks, and indeed dominoes, by private
individuals came from Venice. In the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries
masks made of black satin and velvet often formed part of the toilet of
society ladies. At one period the wearing of them was restricted to the
times of carnivals; at another, the nobility alone were allowed to use
them, and now we only see masks at fancy-dress balls. Of the unwritten
laws that rule the wearing of the mask, Mrs. Aria says[44]: "Whether
worn privately or in public, its disguise has at all times and in
all countries been respected as inviolably sacred. To the masked the
greatest extravagance of language and gesture is permitted. He is
allowed to indulge in acrid personalities and proclaim scathing truths,
which, even if addressed to the monarch himself, go unrebuked. To strike
a mask is a serious offence, while in no class of society, however
degraded, would any one dare to unmask a woman. Yet another prerogative
entitles the masked to invite any woman present, whether masked or not,
to dance with him, etiquette decreeing that the queen of the land may
not claim exemption from this rule. Dear to romance is the masked
highwayman, who flourished until the advent of railways robbed him of
his occupation; and a grim figure is ever the masked headsman."
XXIX
STAGE COSTUMES
THE HARLEQUIN, PANTALOON, COLUMBINE, AND ACROBAT
While Punch has left the stage and is now a puppet, some of his
coadjutors are with us, for the harlequinade is still introduced into
many pantomimes at Christmas, and special plays have been written in
which these characters appear. The harlequin, who gives his name to what
is now an interlude, was some thousand or two years back one of the
important personages in the old Italian comedy which gave us Punch, and
which we have already mentioned in a previous chapter.
Harlequin was versatile and many-sided, and he still keeps up his
slap-dash character. It is true that harlequin does not now speak, any
more than does the columbine, and we may trace the evolution of the
Italian Mimi, or buffoons, into the Pantomimi, who were tragic actors.
They, by means of certain well-understood signs and gestures, were able
to play tragedies in the open air under conditions which would have
prevented their voices from being heard. In some theatres also the
actors were not allowed by the authorities to speak. Originally the
harlequin was a mime. He had a shaven head, a sooty face--for the mimi
blackened their faces like our modern niggers--he had flat, unshod feet
and a patched coat of many colours which he derived from the ancient
peasants of Italy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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