The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
Some have seen in the wand of the harlequin a descendant of the rod of
Mercury, and have sought for a prototype of the modern pantomime in
pagan mysteries. In England, however, we have turned the harlequin into
a magician, and his wand is perhaps the gilt wooden sword which belonged
to the clown or fool all the world over. Now also we have the character
in what Mr. Calthrop terms his tight-fitting lizard-skin of flashing
golden colours, for the patches on his rags have now given place to a
symmetrical pattern (see Figure 158).
There have been many celebrated harlequins who have devoted their lives
to the development of this character, and there is an interesting case
which Disraeli[45] gives in his "Curiosities of Literature," in which,
as part of a quit-rent or feudal tenure--whenever the Abbot of Figéac
entered this town--the Lord of Montbron, dressed in a harlequin's coat,
with one of his legs bare, has to lead the prelate's horse by its bridle
to the abbey.
[Illustration: FIG. 158.--The dress of a modern harlequin.]
In the clown and the pantaloon we still have the dress of Elizabethan
times (see Figures 157 and 159). The paint on the former, as we have
seen, will carry us back to times of remote antiquity. His hat is of a
shape well known in early English history, and he himself is English
all through. The pantaloon, again, is Italian. Both he and his Venetian
breeches get their names from St. Pantaleone, one of the patron saints
of Venice. Pantaleone was by no means an uncommon patronymic in that
place. In order to reconcile the statements that the dress of the
pantaloon is Elizabethan and his nether garments are Venetian, which
might appear to be mutually contradictory, it must be pointed out
that the Venetian breeches had been introduced in the days of earlier
Tudors, and were still in vogue when Elizabeth was on the throne. The
pantaloon's red and green colours and his red heels are also, as we have
indicated, Elizabethan.
[Illustration: FIG. 159.--A pantaloon, showing an Elizabethan costume of
which Venetian breeches form part.]
The columbine, who, like the harlequin, does not speak, and so keeps
up the pantomime character, wears the ballet dress of early Victorian
times. Originally she was a female harlequin, or harlequinne, and her
dress of spangles is still sometimes used in fancy-dress dances. Of the
other characters, who once assisted those that we have described, we
have none left. Scaramouch persisted for some time, and was, like the
harlequin and columbine, a pantomimist. He has gone even from Punch and
Judy, though the doctor still remains.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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