The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
To gain protection, also, some molluscs when building their shells
introduce stones and other shells and corals into the edifice, so that
they become indistinguishable from the sea-bottom on which they lie.
Many caterpillars cover themselves with bits of leaves, and even with
the help of silk make spiral shells that might easily be mistaken for
those of snails. The silk also, from which many of our gay clothes are
made, is spun by the silkworm, which, like the larva of many moths,
produces it in order to protect the chrysalis while it rests.
We are occupied here, however, with the coverings of animals that they
owe to man, and first and foremost of those creatures which have come in
for his polite attentions is the horse.
We may recall the armour by which the chargers of the old knights were
protected, and the trappings or emblazoned coverings that were put over
this in the same way as the surcoat was made to cover the armour of the
knights. (See Figure 84.) The trappings were often made of coloured
satin, and were embroidered with gold and silver, and at the exhibition
held by the Burlington Fine Arts Society in 1905 a chasuble of red
velvet was shown, embroidered with the arms of England in gold, which
was apparently made from a horse-trapper of the fourteenth century.
Figure 84 well shows how the horses carried the armorial bearings of
their masters.
In the ostrich-feather ornaments and the velvet trappings of modern
funeral horses, we still have some remnants of the days of chivalry.
To-day horse clothing, though not intended to be of an ornamental
character, we should imagine, is still often decorated with a monogram
of the horse's owner.
Perhaps one of the most interesting survivals in connection with horses
is to be found in the brasses which decorate those used for carts and
waggons. Dr. Plowright[48] has shown that many of these ornaments, which
are really amulets put on to the harness with a view to protecting the
horses against the evil eye, are of Moorish origin. He contrasts their
style with the ornamental details shown in the Alhambra, and he figures
a number which take the form of a crescent, or a crescent enclosing
an eight-rayed star, and others in which the ornament shows eyes and
eyebrows conventionalized. In other cases we get the fleur-de-lys
treated in an arabesque way, the escallop shell and the mystic
interlaced triangles (which were considered the talisman of talismans,
and are known as the seal of Solomon or the shield of David), with
a crescent in the centre. Miss Lina Eckenstein[49] figures many
other horse brasses which can be compared with those worn by Roman
cart-horses. Among them is the crescent, which was also worn by women
carved in ivory, and by certain senators as ornaments on their shoes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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