The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
To a great extent sleeping suits of a coat and trousers, which are known
by the name of pyjamas, have taken the place of the man's nightshirt.
These have the merit of making a man look more presentable if called up
on an emergency. We shall see, if we contrast male and female fashions,
that it has always been customary for the costume of women to follow
that of men, though most ladies draw the line at adopting trousers. We
have heard, however, of one young lady at least who does by night what
she will not do by day, for she has given up her nightgown in favour of
pyjamas.
[Illustration: FIG. 160.--The bands that survive on a lady's
nightdress.]
[Illustration: FIG. 161.--A woman's nightcap, still worn in Wiltshire.]
Here and there we find that nightcaps are still worn. That belonging to
an old lady, which we figure (see Figure 161), came from the village of
Bishopstone in Wiltshire, where no fewer than twelve old ladies, all of
them over eighty, still wear such a head-dress at night. Nightcaps were
worn by men in the time of the Tudors, and that of Queen Elizabeth, as
is shown by the following extract from a bill of 1547: "Pd. for two
nyght caps of vellvet for them, 8s. 0d."[47]
They were very elaborately embroidered at this time, and in Mary's
reign were mentioned in a sumptuary law. Old men still wear nightcaps,
and the one we figure was used until lately at South Stoke in
Oxfordshire. It is of the familiar style that we associate with such a
head-dress, and has a tassel on the top. (See Figure 162.)
[Illustration: FIG. 162.--A man's nightcap, from Oxfordshire.]
In the time of Queen Anne ladies wore their nightdresses, or night-rails
as they were called, in the streets, and the fashion seems to have
been in vogue at later times, though every means were taken to try and
abolish it. It was not until a murderess was persuaded to appear at her
execution in a bedgown that the fad was relinquished.
XXXI
THE DRESS OF ANIMALS
NATURAL REPRESENTATIVES OF CLOTHES--HORSE TRAPPINGS--AMULETS ON
HARNESS--DOGS' DISGUISES--FASHIONS IN THE FORM OF ANIMALS
Here and there in the animal kingdom we find that creatures protect
themselves from injury by building up cases and coverings from
extraneous materials, and these may very well be compared with the
armour and clothes of mankind. Protection may be gained by merely
securing something ready made to take the place of a coat, as is done in
the case of the hermit-crab or "soldier," which covers itself with the
shell of some dead mollusc. The caddis worm, or larva of the caddis
fly, builds its home of sticks and stones or twigs, and thereby not
only preserves its soft body from injury, but also harmonizes with its
surroundings, in the same way as does the soldier on active service in
time of war.
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