The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
Now we may discuss the apparatus which has been degraded into carrying
out the painful duty of producing an attenuated figure. The name stays
indicates exactly the original intention of the clothing to which it is
applied; but unfortunately something more than mere support has been
sought after at various times since the classic period to which the
beginnings of stays may be traced. The pair of stays which together form
the modern corset--sometimes ignorantly and by false analogy supplied
with an extra "s"--is what is now used for purposes of compression.
Proximately the idea is that of improving the figure, as it is called,
and ensuring that it can be covered with garments of a fashionable
shape. The ultimate results are about as bad as they can be, and it is
not a question of opinion in this case, for the evil effects can be
easily demonstrated. Sir William Flower[54] refers to the practice as
being "one of the most remarkable of all the artificial deformities
produced by adherents to a conventional standard, in defiance of the
dictates of Nature and of reason." He points out that in the process of
deforming the skull, to which we shall allude later, the latter being a
solid case with tolerably uniform walls, its capacity remains the same
whatever alterations may be made in the shape, but in the case of the
body it is quite another matter. It can, in fact, be well likened to a
cylinder of fixed length which is closed above and below by a framework
of bone, and circular compression must actually diminish the area which
has to be occupied by some of the most vital organs. He goes on to
say that the framework of the chest is a most admirable and complex
arrangement of numerous pieces of solid bone and elastic cartilage
joined together in such a manner as to allow of expansion and
contraction for the purposes of respiration--expansion and contraction
which, if a function so essential to the preservation of life and health
is to be performed in an efficient manner, should be perfectly free
and capable of variation under different circumstances. So, indeed, it
has been allowed to be in all parts of the world and in all ages with
one exception. It was reserved for mediæval civilized Europe to have
invented the system of squeezing together, rendering immobile, and
actually deforming the most important part of the human frame; and
the custom has been handed down to, and flourishes in, our day,
notwithstanding all our professed admiration for the models of classical
antiquity, and our awakened attention to the laws of health.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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