The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
The crusade against corsets is by no means confined to this country;
even the educational authorities in America and on the continent of
Europe have dealt pretty drastically with the matter. It is said,
moreover, that the Queen of Portugal has brought before the ladies of
her Court the evils of tight lacing, by means of radiographs. There
have been other times when even laws have been made with regard to the
corset, which, it appears, was first employed for a wrong purpose in
mediæval times. It is said of the time of Henry III of France that the
corset was no longer the simple basquine that was inoffensive enough at
first.[55] The corps piqué which was endured by the fair ladies of the
period was an instrument of torture. A hard solid mould into which the
wearer had to be compressed, there to remain and suffer in spite of
the splinters of wood that penetrated the flesh, took the skin off the
waist, and made the ribs ride one over the other. Montaigne and Ambrose
Paré are witnesses, and the latter must have known something about the
question. It is not, perhaps, surprising that Charles IX and Henry III
brought in stringent laws on the subject.
We are told[56] that with Catherine de Medici's ascent to the throne the
habit became compulsory. She gave her subjects no choice, and said that
all women of good birth and breeding should wear corsets which would
reduce their waists to the abnormal size of thirteen inches.
In our country on various occasions lacing was carried to extremes, as
in the time of Henry VIII. In Elizabeth's time, the forerunner of the
busks was not fastened to the stays, but consisted of a piece of carved
wood which was pushed down inside the bodice. (See Plate XI.) Some of
the outer bodices in the times of the early Georges seem to be as hard
and unyielding as if they were intended for armour. Tin stays were not
unheard of in the days of the earlier colonists in America.
[Illustration: WOODEN STAY BUSKS. THESE INCIDENTALLY SHOW SURVIVALS OF
PRIMITIVE ORNAMENT.
_From the "Reliquary," by kind permission of Messrs. Bembrose & Sons,
Ltd._
_PLATE XI._]
The craze for tight lacing once more made itself felt at the beginning
of the nineteenth century, and not many years before the end one heard
from time to time of the cruelty that was practised at high-class
schools for young ladies, where the girls were made to sleep in
specially tight and rigid corsets.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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