The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
Although there is a tendency to abolish stays, it does not, of course,
prove that on occasion they may not be of use. Mr. Heather Bigg, the
well-known surgeon, who is a specialist in cases of spinal curvature,
and who adopts mechanical means of treatment,[57] is in a position to
offer an opinion on the use of corsets, as he uses special ones as
precautionary means of support and where curvatures may threaten, as
well as to be safeguards against relapse after the mechanical treatment
of a curvature has been consummated. In one of his books he has much to
offer in favour of the corset, and at the outset it may be well to say
that Mr. Heather Bigg's remarks are mainly directed against the views of
the practitioner who, from the treatment that he advises, is called a
gymnastic practitioner, and who, according to Mr. Heather Bigg, goes
further than attacking matters of treatment, and in order to popularize
his own practice endeavours to entwine with it revolutions that shall
extend even to the simplest garments. For instance, the gymnastic
practitioner maintains that corsets are detrimental to health.
Mr. Heather Bigg's opinions practically are those with which most
sensible people would entirely agree. The arguments which he brings
forward in favour of them are not, however, very conclusive, as we hope
to show. Corsets, he says, are intended in their right and proper use
simply to stay and support the body in its natural shape, and not to
mould it into funny forms according to the vagaries of fashion. The
women of classic times did not use them for this purpose. On the
contrary, they had no reason to do so, as their flowing garments did not
permit them to display the outlines of their figures; they therefore
simply wore corsets because it had been found by centuries of experience
that they were conducive to health and serviceable in exertion.
His description of the original corset of Greece and Rome will show
to what ancient form of stay the modern corset may be traced. The
arrangements of the ancients consisted of three pieces, and these were
worn either together or separately, as required. They consisted of
supporting bands worn round the body in a way very similar to the
"putties" worn for support round the legs by the present-day soldiery.
The main and most useful portion of the corset was a zone, or loin band.
Then there was the thoracic band, or strophion, intended to uphold the
breasts and conserve the figure. And, lastly, there was the waistband,
which filled up the space between the other two. It is from the
conjunction of these triple bands that the modern corset has been
evolved, as it is worn by women of every class throughout civilized
Europe to-day. What was made before in three pieces is now simply
manufactured in one.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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