The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
The enactments, however, which were directed against excess in dress do
not seem to have always been so successful. The part which the law
has played with regard to dress in our own country has been very
considerable, and it may be of interest to consider briefly one or two
of the so-called sumptuary laws.
In Edward III's reign the people were ordered to dress according to
their station, and those who were not of high rank were forbidden to
use expensive furs and ornaments. These orders were so neglected that
Henry IV revised and strengthened them. Slashed sleeves at the time of
Edward IV were prohibited to yeomen and any one below their rank.
Legislation was also introduced to lessen the preposterous length to
which the toes of shoes had grown, for it was enacted that not even the
gentlemen should have them of a greater length than two inches.
The Recorder of Chester shows the following order made by Henry VIII:
"To distinguish the head-dresses of married women from unmarried, no
married woman to wear white or other coloured caps; and no woman to wear
any hat, unless she rides or goes abroad into the country (except sick
or aged persons), on pain of 3s. 4d."
Another law amounted to a tax on persons who dressed elegantly, for
those who would not keep a horse and armour ready for the wars were
fined heavily if they or their wives wore fine clothes or ornaments. It
is probable, too, that Henry VIII's officers took care to collect the
fines.
Mary brought in a law against the use of silk, and a little later on the
great ruffs claimed attention, for in 1562 it was ordered that no more
than a yard and a half of kersey should be used in making a ruff. James
I repealed all the sumptuary laws, though we have seen that he and his
successors occupied themselves somewhat with the dress of the clergy.
In Scotland, after the rising of 1745, an Act was passed forbidding the
wearing of tartan as part of Highland dress, under the penalty of six
months' imprisonment for the first offence and transportation beyond the
seas for seven years for the second. No Highlander could receive the
benefit of the Act of Indemnity without first taking the following oath:
"I, A.B., do swear, and as I shall answer to God at the great day of
judgement, I have not, nor shall have, in my possession any gun, sword,
pistol, or arm whatsoever, and never use tartan, plaid, or any part of
the Highland garb; and if I do so, may I be cursed in my undertakings,
family, and property,--may I never see my wife and children, father,
mother, or relations,--may I be killed in battle as a coward, and lie
without Christian burial, in a strange land, far from the graves of
my forefathers and kindred; may all this come across me if I break my
oath." This severe and harsh Act caused great discontent, and was
repealed in 1772.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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