The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
Fashions may have a special significance, as in the case of bell-bottom
trousers of the costermonger, for it is said that by the cut of these
garments the progress of the wearer's courtship can be traced. When he
first "walks out," the bottoms of his trousers are of such an ample size
that only the toes of his boots can be seen. As matters proceed and the
wedding comes into view, the trousers assume more moderate dimensions
below the knee, and when at last the man is married he is content with a
bell of quite modest proportions, with what a writer in one of our comic
papers describes as an almost total absence of "sauciness" in the cut of
the garment.
The lengths to which women will go in their desire to appear in the
fashion, even if they are not, is shown by the business which a lady in
New York is said to have founded. According to all accounts, she deals
in nothing but discarded Paris waistbands--that is to say, those which
bear the names of well-known dressmakers. Women in plenty in New York
will buy these little strips of silk in order to have them stitched
into their own dresses, to give their friends the impression that their
garments were made in the French capital.
Laws intended for the good of trade have brought in fashions, as in the
case of the statute cap. The very objections made by religious sects
such as the Puritans and Quakers, who have departed from extravagance
and superfluity, have given rise to new fashions of plainness. Even
Quaker ladies must have shown their love of dress, for at a meeting in
1726 the following message was sent by some of the stronger-minded of
them to their fellow-women:--
"As first, that immodest fashion of hooped petticoats or the imitation,
either by something put into their petticoats to make them set full, or
any other imitation whatever, which we take to be but a branch springing
from the same corrupt root of pride. And also that none of our ffriends
accustom themselves to wear their gowns with superfluous folds behind,
but plain and decent, nor go without aprons, nor to wear superfluous
gathers or plaits in their caps or pinners, nor to wear their heads
drest high behind; neither to cut or lay their hair on their foreheads
or temples.
"And that ffriends be careful to avoid wearing striped shoes or red and
white heeled shoes or clogs or shoes trimmed with gaudy colours.
"And also that no ffriends use that irreverent practice of taking snuff
or handing a snuff-box one to the other in meeting.
"Also that ffriends avoid the unnecessary use of fans in meeting, lest
it direct the mind from the more inward and spiritual exercises which
all ought to be concerned in.
"And also that ffriends do not accustom themselves to go with bare
breasts or bare necks."
Perhaps in a minor way superstitions also have tended to keep up
fashions. At a wedding, for instance, it is always said that a bride
should wear
Something old and something new,
Something borrowed and something blue.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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