The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
It is evident from what we have said about the effect of clothes upon
the body, that there is ample opportunity for improvement in our costume
as regards its shape and the methods in which it is worn. We have
already said also, when speaking of colour, that, in the case of men
at any rate, it might often be more picturesque and brighter. There
are several societies whose aim it is to bring about improvements. The
Rational Dress League has general objects in view, and it also keeps in
mind the special one of introducing bifurcated garments for women. There
is also the Healthy and Artistic Dress Union which seems to have general
objects.
Education is needed in order that knowledge of the evil results of
wrongly shaped shoes and tight stays may be known, and what is more,
such training as will enable that strength of mind to be acquired
which will prevent the coming generation from being swayed by foolish
fashions. The origin of these it is difficult to trace, but the pioneers
of them, whether self-centred costumiers or willing victims, ought
to be punished in some way. There are points to be borne in mind in
connection with garments which have not yet been considered, and they
cause otherwise unoffending clothes to do harm. There is no doubt but
that the weight of one's dress should be suspended from the shoulders,
though the great majority of women hang much of their clothes from their
waists. A good deal of the weight could easily be taken off this part of
the body by the fastening of skirts and under garments to bodices, or by
the use of shoulder-straps and the introduction of tunics.
Dr. Cantlie[60] has very graphically shown the common features of a
modern family, and he has given a picture (see Figure 169) of a group
consisting of the average-sized mother, the taller and larger-framed
daughter, and the insufficiently clad boy of poor physique. This author
says that the sailor suit worn at the age of two and a half or three
years is a recent innovation, and the rather puny young boy of to-day
came in with the change. Dr. Cantlie has estimated that, except in very
hot weather, children should have a pound of clothing for every stone
they weigh, for the one great secret of rendering children healthy is
to keep them warm. As a matter of fact, a girl that weighs three stone
really wears clothes that weigh three pounds; but one of the small boys
of the same weight, in a sailor suit, wears clothes that only weigh
about half as much as his sister's.
Dr. Cantlie also objects to short jackets which do not cover the loins,
and says that the public school that will introduce the Norfolk jacket
in the place of the Eton will thrive at the expense of its neighbours.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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