The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
High collars worn by youths keep the head at the wrong angle, and also
perpetuate the deformity of the jaw which is caused by breathing through
the mouth. They also prevent the shoulders from being squared in the
attempt to get rid of round shoulders. Dr. Cantlie urges a return to
the brace worn by our fathers, and still occasionally seen, in which
the straps are not united. It is impossible for any one wearing joined
braces to stand erect with the shoulders squared, for they press on
the neck and cause the wearer to poke his head forward. Dr. Cantlie,
however, hopes that the difficulties in the way of obtaining separate
braces will not lead to the adoption of the elastic belt, for the only
place where this could be worn without bad effects is below the haunch
bones, and in ordinary dress this would bring it below the waistcoat. It
will be found also that the use of belts by labourers brings evils in
its train which were not mentioned by Mr. Heather Bigg, when speaking of
the advantages of girding up the loins. (See page 329.)
No account of dress and its developments would be complete without a
reference to Mrs. Bloomer and the garments which now bear her name, and
are emblematical of rational costume. That women have no absolute claim
to petticoats as their own special dress has been made quite clear, and
it is equally evident that in many places they wear trousers as a matter
of course. Still, in this country there seems to be a rooted objection
on the part of the majority to doffing skirts, though this seems,
however, to be growing less day by day, in spite of the many reasons
which cause the fair sex to cling to petticoats. As we have found
before, garments which fall to the ground give dignity, and women
sacrifice their dignity with difficulty. Yet, as need hardly be
pointed out, men do not wear dressing-gowns when they are jumping, nor
fur-trimmed mantles when they go to business. Dresses with trains could
be kept for ceremonial occasions, or when there is nothing much to be
done, or again, we might add, when there is little dust to be raised.
[Illustration: FIG. 169.--A modern family, consisting of the
average-sized mother, the taller daughter, and the puny boy (from a
drawing by Miss Audrey Watson in "Physical Efficiency," by Dr. Cantlie,
by kind permission of Messrs. Putnam's Sons).]
Bacteriology has shown us that the long skirt disseminates germs as it
trails along the ground; in fact, it stirs them up for other people to
breathe, and the culprit herself carries off as her fair share a large
quantity which settles on her dress. In this way the germs of disease
are carried home to the dwelling-house.
In these days also, when women even jump on and off motor omnibuses
before they are at a stand-still, it is evident that long frocks are
objectionable and dangerous.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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