The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
Those who have written upon dress from an artistic point of view have
recognized that costume and architecture are affected by the same
influences. When we come to the hat, we find that its name is connected
with a building of a primitive character, namely, a hut. Mr. Allan
Poe Newcombe, an architect, some years ago pointed out the curious
resemblance which has existed, and is still to be found in many
countries, between headgear and habitations or other buildings.[7]
It may be that the cases which have been collected together are mere
coincidences, though it must be allowed that they are both numerous and
striking. It may be that the same taste, or lack of it, has given rise
to the similarity of style, or in the beginning, the designer of the hat
may have taken the hut as a model.
In the Hawaiian Islands, long before the inhabitants troubled about
clothes, they built themselves grass houses, and at the present time the
characteristic Hawaiian hat is remarkably like the hut. The turbans of
Eastern Church dignitaries are still of the same shape as those worn
by the high priests among the Jews, and are remarkably like the
characteristic dome which surmounts a mosque. (See Figure 42.)
[Illustration: FIG. 42.--The turban of a Jewish priest (after Kitto)
compared with the dome of the Mosque of Omar.]
Looking about in other countries we shall find further instances that
support Mr. Newcombe's contention; our illustration of a Siamese
head-dress and building is a case in point. (See Figure 43.)
Again going back into European history, we find that the high pointed
spires of Gothic churches were cotemporaneous with the high horn-like
head-dress known as the hennin (see Figure 44). It is claimed, moreover,
that like results will be found after a comparison of other styles of
architecture with the costume of the period in which they flourished.
[Illustration: FIG. 43.--A Siamese head-dress and a Pra Pang or Votive
spire (after P.A. Thompson).]
[Illustration: FIG. 44.--A Gothic spire (St. Stephen's, Caen) compared
with the hennin (the latter after Fairholt).]
Leaving this suggestive line of research, and coming to hats as we have
them at the present day, we find that they offer several remarkable
vestiges for our consideration. First of all there is the hat-band
outside, which sometimes ends in two tails or streamers that hang from
the back of the hat (see Figure 47). From the bow usually present it
is evident that the hat-band was tied, and the streamers represent the
loose ends. As a matter of fact, primitively, a head-dress was made from
a piece of cloth, round which a fillet was tied so that it fitted the
head. In this connexion Figure 45 is most interesting. It represents
the back view of the head of the Egyptian woman of the Sixth Dynasty,
who is seen in Figure 76, and shows a head-dress which is confined with
a fillet that is tied at the back so as to make two tails.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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