The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
It is possible also that in the lacing we have a means by which a hat
was originally shaped, and that the lace is really a hat-band threaded
through the material of the head-dress instead of being tied round
outside. The first diagram on page 57 shows a flat piece of leather
cut into a circular form; the next shows it perforated and a lace put
through the openings; the third indicates how by tightening the string a
crown could be made to the hat.
[Illustration: FIG. 54.--A disc of leather.]
[Illustration: FIG. 55.--The disc perforated and the lace inserted.]
[Illustration: FIG. 56.--The lace tightened to form a crown.]
[Illustration: FIG. 57.--The ends of the lace tied as a bow inside.]
In time, when the crown was made in different ways, it would be easy to
transfer the lacing to the lining as seen already in the hunting hat
(Figure 53).
It is interesting to note that a small bow is also found inside ladies'
hats, and often used as a place on which to put the name of the maker.
(See Figure 58.)
[Illustration: FIG. 58.--A bow fastened to the lining of a lady's hat.]
[Illustration: FIG. 59.--Plumes on the left side.]
Sir George Darwin has shown why plumes are, and used to be, on the left
side of a hat only. In the days when the feathers were particularly long
there was also plenty of fighting, and it only needs the attention to
be drawn to the point, to make one realize that if the plume had been
on the right side, it might often have got in the way of a sword and
thereby caused the overthrow or even death of its wearer. At the present
day in the army (see Figure 59), the plumes will be found on the left
side as in the days of cavaliers.
Sir George Darwin[8] has traced the origin of the busby, and has
shown that the little red flap that hangs on the left side as a
useless appendage is really the original cap. Busbies were the special
attributes of the Hussars, who were originally Hungarian soldiers. It
is the peasant's cap of Hungary that is the forerunner of the military
head-dress which we are considering, and it consisted of a red cap of
cloth with a band of fur round the edge. As time went on, the fur on the
cap, which was adopted in the end by various regiments, became wider and
wider, and the original red cap got smaller and smaller until the form
of the modern busby was reached. In some cases even the flap already
mentioned has gone, though the fact that the top of the busby is made of
cloth instead of fur still points to its origin. (See Figures 60 and
61.)
[Illustration: FIG. 60.--The red Hungarian cap, which was the forerunner
of the busby.]
[Illustration: FIG. 61.--A busby (of the Honourable Artillery Company)
in which the cap is a vestige only.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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