The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
One of the most perfect instances of vestiges, as Sir George Darwin
points out, is afforded by top boots. In their original form, still to
be seen in our streets on sewer men, the boots were made to come above
the knee, but fashion decreed that the top should be turned back (see
Figure 68), and so it came about that the inside became visible, as did
also the tags, with the help of which the boots were pulled on. When the
outside of the boots was blacked it would form a distinct contrast to
the inside, which remained brown, and in modern top boots the difference
in colour has been in many cases greatly accentuated. Indeed, the upper
parts are made of different leather, and as ordinary coat cuffs are now
incapable of being turned down, the tops of the boots are immovable and
cannot be turned up. It is curious, however, that the tags at the sides
are still represented and sewn to the boot so as to be quite useless,
while new tags placed inside the boot now do their duty. (See Figure
69.)
[Illustration: FIG. 69.--A modern top boot in which the upper part can
no longer be turned up.]
[Illustration: FIG. 70.--Puttees.]
Socks and stockings are, at the present time, the most usual coverings
for the lower parts of the legs, and there is at least one vestige which
remains in their structure that has an interest for us. Before we
consider this, however, we may look at another means of protecting the
lower extremities which tells of more primitive conditions. The leg
bandages so commonly worn by our regular soldiers and volunteers are the
case in point. (See Figure 70.) These appear to have been immediately
derived from the Indian Army, and their name--"puttees"--is evidence
of this; but such an arrangement is very widespread, and was that
generally adopted in this country in Anglo-Saxon times. Our illustration
is taken from an illuminated manuscript prepared for St. Aethelwold for
use at Winchester, which was completed between the years 963 and 964
A.D. Bandaged stockings are common on representations of Anglo-Saxons,
but according to Fairholt the example given shows them to greater
advantage than does any other known. The figure in question is dressed
in royal costume, and the bandages, which are of gold, are fastened just
below the knee with a knot from which hang tassels. (See Figure 71.)
[Illustration: FIG. 71.--Leg bandages of a royal personage at the end of
the tenth century (after Fairholt).]
It has been thought that leg bandages were originally derived from the
haybands which peasants wrap round their legs, and the writer has seen
it stated that ostlers in this country still perpetuate the Anglo-Saxon
fashion, though he has never met with an actual instance. The pfiferari
who some years ago used to play on bagpipes and other primitive
instruments in our streets, wore leg bandages or loose linen stockings,
and these were cross-gartered with bands which held in place a simple
sandal made of a piece of leather.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account