XXVII THE COSTUME OF PUPPETS Punch and Judy--Fashion dolls--Dolls in swaddling clothes--The Egyptian "shabbies" 253 XXVIII THE CLOWN AND PAINTING THE BODY The clown's dress--Savage painting and survivals of it--Tattooing--Patches and false complexions--Masks 269 XXIX STAGE COSTUMES The harlequin, pantaloon, columbine, and acrobat 282 XXX NIGHTDRESS Bands on nightgowns--Nightcaps--Night attire worn in the streets 287 XXXI THE DRESS OF ANIMALS Natural representatives of clothes--Horse trappings--Amulets on harness--Dogs' disguises--Fashions in the form of animals 291 XXXII COLOUR Importance of colour--Instinctive love of bright hues--Desirability of coloured clothes and gay scenes--Colour and complexion 305 XXXIII PATTERNS Ancient designs--Checks and tartans--Parti-coloured clothes--Evolution of ornamentation 311 XXXIV IMPRESSIONS TO BE GAINED FROM DRESS Clues from clothes--Individuality not disguised by them--Modern dress of other countries--Significance of clothes 315 XXXV THE EFFECT OF CLOTHES UPON THE INDIVIDUAL The origin of stays--Tight lacing no new thing--Its effects--Mr. Heather Bigg on the need for support--The ideal foot--Skull deformities--Padding 322 XXXVI FURTHER EFFECTS OF CLOTHES ON THE INDIVIDUAL Mental effects of different clothes--Preferences of girls for certain articles of dress--Movements that depend upon the presence or absence of clothes 339 XXXVII THE RISE AND FALL OF FASHIONS Reason why fashions are followed--Gay clothes seen when periods of depression are over--Condemnation of fashions by the clergy--Quakers--Sumptuary laws--The killing of fashions 343 XXXVIII DRESS REFORM Clothes to be avoided--Need for warmer garments--"Rational" dress for women 354 CONCLUSION 362 BIBLIOGRAPHY 363 INDEX 369 LIST OF PLATES PLATE FACING PAGE I. Very early man in Java. Illustrating the remarks in Chapter II, pages 6 and 7 _Frontispiece_ II. A woman and a witch-doctor of Central Africa, showing the part that ornaments may play even when clothing is of the scantiest. (From a photograph by Captain Ford) 9