The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
In our own country the custom of wearing feathers is an exceedingly
old one. The single upright specimens worn by the knights of the
fourteenth century have been characterized as being preposterous in
size. The plumes afterwards worn in helmets in the fifteenth and
sixteenth centuries were also immense. In 1606, according to Nichol's
"Progresses," on the occasion of the visit of Christian IV, some of
the knights "wore strange feathers of rich and great esteem which they
called Birdes of Paradice," and, unfortunately, ladies of the present
day wear them still. In the reign of Edward IV, we learn, only men,
practically speaking, wore feathers. They still survive in the army,
but otherwise in the twentieth century, with the exception of an
occasional small and modest instance amongst civilians, the wearing of
plumes is confined to ladies.
Many flowers and feathers are exceedingly beautiful, and from an
artistic point of view there seems little reason why we should allow
civilization to sweep them away. We are quiet and colourless in our
clothing, and if we are not careful the same element of dulness may
creep into our lives. At the same time, however, to wear feathers which
can only be obtained at the cost of cruelty or of depriving others of
the sight of beautiful birds, or, again, of bringing any species to
extinction, savours too much of barbarousness and thoughtlessness to be
in any way condoned.
Ostriches are reared for their feathers, and the plumage of many birds
that are killed for food is always at hand.
Men have much less opportunity now of showing any great individuality in
their dress than heretofore, but sometimes they may be known by always
wearing a buttonhole, even if that does not always consist of the same
kind of bloom. The language of flowers, though now seemingly considered
to be a dead letter, was hardly invented for nothing.
Of the brooch and its connection with the safety-pin we have already
spoken. In many ornaments we find remnants of religious ideas; for
instance, all brooches showing a crescent pattern or bearing the design
of a hand are connected with the old phallic worship. The cross, it may
be mentioned, is of much more ancient origin than Christianity, and is
connected intimately with the swastika or fylfot.
The locket and other pendant ornaments must in many, if not all, cases
be the descendants of amulets. The Arab women at the present day wear
a little metal box containing a written talisman. An ancient Egyptian
buried, with his mummies, many amulets and charms so that the soul, in
obedience to various precepts, might enter into complete union with Ra,
the solar god, and so accompany him on his journey round the world, and
secure his everlasting protection.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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