The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
There are in this country still a few monumental brasses called chrysom
brasses showing babies in their baptismal robes. A case where the child
is swathed up even more rigidly than was customary in the old world is
to be seen in the case of the North American Indian papoose, which is
fastened down to a cradle of board or basket work, and at first is so
fixed by the swaddling process that only its head is movable. In some
instances several months elapse before even the arms are allowed to be
free, and these are fastened up again at night.
It is probably owing to deformities that were at first accidentally
caused by this bandaging process, that the fashions arose which demand
that the shape of the skull in certain races shall be intentionally and
artificially altered. To this subject, however, we shall refer again
when dealing with the question of the effects of clothes upon the body.
As might well be imagined, the petticoats of small boys are a survival,
and one which is to be commended in every way. The putting of infants at
an early age into jersey knickerbocker suits cannot but be bad for them
physically, and it makes them look for all the world like little woollen
monkeys. Mr. Druitt[22] has described as many as seven brasses of
various dates between the years 1585 and 1642, which show boys dressed
in petticoats.
Dr. Alice Vickery thinks that it would be well if infant boys and girls
were dressed exactly alike, say up to the age of five or seven. She says
it is difficult to judge the extent to which sex bias is imbibed in the
earliest years, and we should do our best to postpone it as long as
possible. She continues[23]:--"If boys and girls were dressed alike,
taught together and played together, this would do much to direct
attention away from, instead of towards, sex distinction. The longer
such a system could be maintained the longer would be the period during
which rewards and punishments, praise and blame, would attach to actions
and conduct, to the exercise of self-control, kindliness and generosity,
efficiency, industry and alertness, quite apart from all intrusions of
sex idea, and its possibilities of subjection and predominance. That
would in itself be a great gain."
"The best school for the training of life and conduct is the school of
equality, where privilege and subjection are alike unknown, and the
co-education of the sexes is a step in the direction of justice and
fraternity."
"There is one point more on which I will add a few words. I have always
been a great sceptic as to the essential physical inferiority of the
feminine. It is true that in the aggregate that inferiority does exist,
but where can we find a place, a people among whom the development of
girlhood has had full and free scope?"
The custom for young girls to wear their hair down is also an old
one, though married ladies of the fifteenth century are occasionally
represented with flowing tresses.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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