The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of ClothesWebb, Wilfred Mark
History
The Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
Webb, Wilfred Mark
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- History
At the present day, as a rule, when a girl puts up her hair her
petticoats are usually lengthened simultaneously. The age at which these
important changes are made varies. For instance, if a girl has a number
of unmarried sisters older than herself, the time is often put off.
Sometimes the term "old-fashioned" is synonymous with "sensible," and
people with such ideas very often keep their girls in short frocks until
they are really grown up.
The two changes in the girls' method of dressing are not, however,
always made at the same time. In the upper classes we find a tendency
for the long dress to come first. Girls, on the other hand, who have
to go out into the world as nursemaids and kitchenmaids, may, in order
to make themselves look older and more sedate, put up their hair while
they are still in short frocks, though it must be said that the effect
is not quite pleasing if it is business-like.
In the bib of the infant we find a relative of that part of the apron or
the more voluminous pinafore which covers the chest. Although grown-up
women sometimes wear pinafores, these, like the bibs, must now be
considered as part of children's dress, though no doubt in the beginning
they were derived from the costume of grown-up people.
[Illustration: FIG. A.
THE CAP WORN BY THE SCHOLARS OF CHRIST'S HOSPITAL UNTIL THE MIDDLE OF
THE NINETEENTH CENTURY.
FIG. B.
A SCHOLAR OF CHRIST'S HOSPITAL.
(_By the courtesy of the Rev. A. W. Upcott, M.A., Headmaster of Christ's
Hospital._)
_PLATE IX._]
The next subject that we may appropriately consider here is that of the
characteristic costumes which are worn in certain schools. In connection
with boys, the first case which immediately comes to mind is that of the
Blue-coat boys, as the scholars of Christ's Hospital, which was founded
in 1552, have come to be called. Their blue coat is part of the ordinary
dress of the citizen of the reign of Edward VI, and the scholarly man
at this time had the skirts of his blue coat long, while in other cases
they were cut off at the knee. Instead of trunks, however, the Blue-coat
boy wears more modern knickerbockers, but he clings to his yellow
stockings. (See Plate IX, Figure B.)
The scholars of Christ's Hospital have discarded caps (see Plate IX,
Figure A), but the one which should go with their dress is flat, like
the one which came into fashion in the reign just mentioned. It was the
one afterwards called the statute cap, when Elizabeth for the good of
trade ordered that "one cap of wool, knitted thick and dressed in
England," was to be worn "by all over six years of age except such
persons as had twenty marks a year in land and their heirs and such as
have borne office of worship." A cap of the same kind was worn by
Edward VI, and is still part of the dress of Beef-eaters at the Tower
of London.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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